View Full Version : AU II Low Idle - almost stalls.
21-02-2005, 01:35 AM
I am having a couple of issues with my AUII Fairmont at the moment.
The other the day the battery went flat, which I think is my fault but since I put a new one in, the engine seems to idle a bit slow. If you were to move the steering wheel when in drive but stationary, the revs would drop below 500 and the car would shudder before the revs would pickup. Sometimes as you roll to a stop it starts to rev too low also.
I have a hole in the exhaust, right in the back box, which is causing it to run rough, and I need to get it fixed, but I was quoted about $400+ by ford. Is this the cost of just the back box or do you have to buy the whole thing here (I am a pom and exhausts rust so quick in the UK you would just replace the rusty part :P)
Do you think the exhaust is the cause of the low revs? I am planning on getting the exhaust fixed and then taking it in the shop to get it tuned. Is this the best plan of action?
Other issues I have include squeaky brakes, but there is plenty of pad. It is the rear the most, almost like the handbrake is binding. Also, the left hand power windows are slow to go up. I think the runners need lubricating but I was wandering if this is a common problem and if there is a common solution.
Sorry for the long post and thanks for any help,
26-02-2005, 10:59 AM
hi mate. i had a similar problem with my ed falcon after the battery died. I was told the computer had to relearn the idle speed and to do this you just had to flogg the car around for a while and it would eventually idle properly. this didn't work on mine so i just adjusted the base idle on the throttle body and had no problems after that.
26-02-2005, 06:54 PM
I have noticed, it has gotten much better. The worst bit now is the Air Con. When it kicks in, it drops real slow, then surges up to compensate. This is really bad when stopped at lights as the car surges forward when you haven't got the brake pressed down hard.
I will let you know how I go when I go in for an exhaust next week anyways.
28-02-2005, 12:44 PM
Check (or have someone check for you) the ISC (Idle-speed-control solenoid). If this is faulty, it can affect your idle speed, fluctuating it.
The reason why your air con and power steering is affecting your idle is because when the pumps kick in, they load up the motor, and if there's not enough revs to begin with, the car will stall. The ISC will bring the revs back up, hence your surge, but if not functioning correctly, won't keep them where they're meant to be.
A quick cheap fix would be to just reset the idle speed manually, using the idle speed screw on the the throttle body (look for a screw holding the throttle lever connected to the butterfly open a little when in idle position).
28-02-2005, 12:47 PM
and as for your exhaust issues - a small hole in the third muffler won't affect the running of your engine, but replace it anyway, as it is no doubt making an annoying noise. $400 for that muffler is way to expensive. Just take it to a muffler specialist and they'll charge you around $150 fitted.
28-02-2005, 10:12 PM
the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) in PCM (computer) were clear due to the flat battery and just has to be relearnt the problem with exhaust will not alter idle or why is running rough this will only make it sound loud or like a patic bomb. so in regards to your idle do not touch the idle screw as this is only touch when we plug the Computer to the car and we can change the cycle duty of the ISC (Idle Speed Controller) and can only be done with the right tooling is just so technical but hey good news to relearnt the values in the KAM just do these easy steps:
1: bring engine to normal working temperature and park on well ventilated area and flat and safe to run vehicle as is going to be idling approx.12-15mins.
2:handbrake on and foot on the brake A/C off select "D" and hold 2mins.aprox
3:select "N" and foot on the brake and hanbrake on hold 2mins
4:select "R" and foot on the brake and handbrake on hold 2 mins
5:select "P" and foot of the brake allow to idle for 5secs approx
6:switch A/C on and do same as above making sure is safe and secure to do all the steps above.
note is good idea to have a reasanoable clean air filter and good leads and spark plugs, if known that they are due for replacement do so before the above is carried out as these will affect your parameters providing all are in sound condition well just fallow the procedure and presto is relearnt the KAM
In regards to your muffler just get a value part if your getting thru genuanine parts is going to be expensive any exhaust place should have a cheaper alternative does not affect what brand it is and will not affect your std. engine so hey good luck hope it helps!!!!!!!! :)
28-02-2005, 10:44 PM
Pfft, too technical my ***. Just play with the idle screw, be fixed in about 5 seconds. Don't be scared of it.
28-02-2005, 11:31 PM
Thanks for the reply guys.
AU-Guru seems to be on the money and his comments agree with what ford said on the phone today and with what I am experiencing. It has gotten much more stable and I generally just let the engine sort itself out when it finds itself idling too low and it seems to be becoming less and less frequent.
I didn't want to touch the idle screw for a couple of reasons.
1 - My old AT Telstar used to rev high and caused the car to pull too much when in drive.
2 - My idle screw appears to have been filled in with some kind of resin to prevent people playing with it.
3 - It was pretty uch fine before the battery died, so I was guessing it was something electronic.
I am at the Ford service center on Friday to get a new third box on the exhaust, including the cool chrome tailpipe (which you need with it being a fairmont :tongue: ) At the same time I *may* get them to tune it if it seems to still run rough. It is coughing a little at the moment which I can only assume is the dodgy exhaust.
Anyways, I will keep you posted and thanks again,
28-02-2005, 11:34 PM
BTW: I gave the motor a service just on the weekend. I changed the oil, oil filter and air filter (and the wiper blades :P ) and it had new genuine HT leads and plug so I doubt that could cause the coughing and spluttering.
Will be fixed soon I am sure :D
01-03-2005, 01:02 PM
Well good luck with it and make sure you let us know how you go.
07-03-2005, 11:01 PM
Well good luck with it and make sure you let us know how you go.
Of course I will let you know...
It went in on Friday and it turns out it was the main muffler that needed replacing. In the end I went for the aftermarket exhaust, from the cat-converter back. I also had it tuned and the guys uploaded the new computer software etc etc.
It idles, perfectly, doesn't cough or splutter and sounds nice and quiet again!
I have to say, the guys at QFord Browns Plains (QLD) are the dogs bollocks. They have always been great when I go there; quick, polite and reliable. Not like Metro Ford in the Valley!
Anyways, thanks all for your help,
01-05-2007, 08:38 PM
$400 for a exhaust what a rip off.
The other day I got a quoted $300(fitted) for a 2.5" lukey exhaust.
for a AU Ute and my mates 2.5" (w/humex) cost $250(fitted) for his XH.
Try a Exhaust shop they'll do it cheaper than the dealer.
a cat back system is usually $300 - $350 fitted at any exhaust shop.
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