bushmechanic
20-10-2009, 11:59 PM
Hi guys & gals, after doing an extensive expensive full rebuild on a 95 EF Fairmont (4.0L Engine auto) i found numerous mechanical & electrical problems that required attention & decided to document some basic info that may be beneficial to you....service manuals are available on cd in .pdf format from ebay for around $10, search for ef or el workshop manual
SMART LOCK PROBLEM, ie:- car wont start ....remove body control module (BCM), located behind the dash facia in front & just above the drivers left knee when sitting in the driver’s seat...
remove unit, disassemble & resolder dry solder joints, reassemble, reinstall & test.
if you require a smartlock bypass module with detailed installation instructions for around $100 delivered email: fordfam1@optusnet.com.au (murray)
NO START, check interior light, fuses, corroded fuse box, relays, transmission inhibitor switch, battery terminals, starter motor solenoid failure, fuel pump or relay, coil pack etc, if main fuses blow during cranking, check for seized aircon compressor.
ROUGH IDLE, replace both engine mounts & K frame brackets with square type EL series 2 mounts,
Kelpro part # (mount) MT8370, (bracket) MTB8370 available at Repco for around $200
original round hydraulic mounts collapse causing rough idle / vibration & are no longer commercially available
check ECU for codes, a faulty ecu may not idle properly
check spark plug gaps 1.0mm -1.1mm for petrol, & 0.9mm for LPG
check leads for damage or high resistance...anything over 7kΩ is usually unserviceable
check or replace coolant temp sensor
check or replace coil pack
check & clean ISC with carby cleaner, remove & disassemble the black cap & clean the felt filters out.
clean throttle body with carby cleaner
check, clean or replace pcv valve
check or replace HEGO (oxy) sensor
clean or replace injectors, O rings, baskets & pintle caps
check or replace switch on steering rack
remove & clean the IAT sensor located in the plennum chamber under the throttle body with CRC mass airflow sensor cleaner
check for vacuum leaks...ie inlet manifold gasket, hoses, brake booster, tank behind drivers side front guard,
charcoal canister behind passenger front guard etc.
RUNS ROUGH, check the following...water in fuel, stale fuel, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relief valve, fuel pump gauze filter, harmonic balancer, injectors, coil pack, spark plugs, leads, head gasket, broken head bolt, broken rocker arm, collapsed lifter, inlet manifold gasket, vacuum leak, seized aircon compressor, pcv valve, cracked carbon canister, blocked fuel filter Z373, blocked air filter A491, broken timing chain guide or tensioner, engine mounts, map sensor, blocked catalytic converter, worn throttle shaft, tps sensor, iat sensor, hego sensor,
coolant temp sensor, dirty isc & throttle body.
EF EDIS (electronic distributorless ignition system) has infrared transmitter/receiver & rotating vane.
ensure the rotating vane & light gap is clean & lubricate the center shaft bushings.
unit is not adjustable.
EL DISTRIBUTOR, has a magnetic hall effect sensor & rotating vane.
remove any metal filings attached to the magnet, ensure the rotating vane is clean & lubricate the center shaft bushings.
if no spark is present check tfi module, dizzy cap, rotor button, coil lead, coil & electrical connections.
when replacing the tfi module use heatsink compound sparingly.
NOTE: after discovering an acceleration problem similar to a vacuum leak or fuel delivery, i scanned the ecu with a dedicated scan tool, the ecu generated code 111 during KOEO & KOER tests....after several days of fault finding,
replacing gaskets, injectors, hoses and pulling my hair out trying to find the problem, i replaced the ecu...problem solved!
i learned....code 111 is'nt always a 100% guarantee that everything is ok...so if in doubt replace the ecu.
if you require a professional scan tool thats aussie made for around $200 delivered & works on XF to EL, comes with instructions, cables & everything you need straight out of the box, email: fordfam1@optusnet.com.au (murray)
LPG MODIFICATIONS, replace airbox clip springs with coil type springs,
replace thermostat with a hiflow unit Tridon part # TT2028-195,
replace ignition leads with inductive stainless steel bosch leads or equivalent,
replace spark plugs with NGK part # BPR6EY, 0.9mm gap
use a hacksaw & cut airbox snorkel at approx 30 degrees from tip to mount parallel to filter element.
replace air filter element with K&N part # 33-2015
secure the small black plastic F type vacuum connector Ford Part# XE6C318A located on the plennum chamber under the throttle body with a hose clamp so it can't blow off if it backfires.
replace the PCV valve with a steel unit Ford Part# AEV13
replace the rear coil springs & update the shocks with heavy duty units to accommodate the lpg tank.
FRONT END KNOCK, replace swaybar links & "D" bushes...physically measure swaybar diameter as they vary from 26-27mm
check struts, bushes, worn ball joints, worn steering rack including tie rod ends, worn or loose intermediate shaft, loose K frame, engine mounts & worn radius rod bushes.....Super Pro blue urethane suspension components are good value.
COOLING SYSTEM, clean coolant reservoir with 1/2 cup of washing powder ,1/2 cup of sand & 1/2 litre of non alkaline degreaser...block all entry / exits with plastic bags & cable ties, add cleaning agents & shake vigorously for 15 minutes......
repeat if necessary....
replace radiator cap with a 120kpa "non recovery tank type", replace thermostat with a hiflow unit Tridon part # TT2028-195,
replace coolant with GM coolant that meets or exceeds HN2043-AS2108:1:1997 & mix 50/50 with fresh water,
install an earth strap from radiator to radiator support panel, check heater tap for rust & replace if necessary.
check hoses & pump, check thermostat housing for leaks or corrosion, test the cooling system for electrolysis using a multimeter 0.3v max
if you have a coolant level sensor, check or replace the sensors rubber grommet in the reservoir housing (same grommet as windscreen washer bottle)
fill the cooling system to the minimum line when cold to allow for expansion when hot.
pressure test if possible & check thermo fan operation by temporarily unplugging the coolant temp sensor.
if the fans dont run full speed with the coolant temp sensor unplugged check the relays & sockets behind the passenger headlight.
NOTE: vehicles fitted with LPG have a larger cooling system capacity due to converter & hoses and coolant should be mixed & added accordingly....i recommend NULON long life (green) coolant (1058 gm/p/l glycol).
HINT: if your thermostat housing is partially corroded where it mates the head use a bastard file & file the surface flat
then coat the new gasket with a suitable sealant & bolt it back on.
if you have idle or acceleration problems when cold, check or replace the coolant temp sensor Tridon part # TSC011
DASH BOARD FUSE BOX COVER, gently heat & manipulate locking tabs with a hot air gun for desired fit.
SIDE MIRRORS, use fuller brand fulaprene (grey neoprene rubber compound) to secure broken or loose side mirror assemblies.
it's temperature tolerant to 80 degrees Celsius, UV stabilized, water resistant, sticks anything to anything...better than factory glue...& available from bunnings for $14 per tube....you need a caulking gun...saves buying new mirrors & stops the mirrors vibrating all the time.
BONNET & BOOT STRUTS, replace as necessary, if boot strut brackets have broken off, remove rear outer seat cushions & seat belts, drill holes through brackets & parcel shelf support to accommodate bolts to secure the brackets in their original position......Gas Strut Engineering Fawkner Victoria (03) 9357 - 2821
UNIVERSAL JOINTS, install unis & rebalance tail shaft....O.E.M tail shafts are NOT balanced accurately.
balancing services australia in coburg victoria fully reconditioned mine, new unis, balanced & painted for $145 same day.
B.S.A (03) 9480 - 4040 ask for Murray
BRAKES, check & machine brake rotors or replace as necessary, check slide sleeves on callipers to ensure they aren’t seized,
replace brake fluid with "SUPER DOT 4" or "DOT 5.1" with a boiling point no less than 260 degrees Celsius.
clean ABS sensors & tone rings, rear handbrake shoes should measure 189.7mm from edge to edge.
hand brake lever should be adjusted for roadworthy requirement of 4 clicks
front rotor minimum thickness = 22mm, rear rotor minimum thickness = 8.5mm
ADB cross drilled & slotted rotors with Bendix CT pads all round & GS610 brake fluid are an ideal brake upgrade under $450
if the engine runs rough check the vacuum booster for vacuum leaks
if the brakes dont respond properly check the master cylinder for brake fluid leaks .....evidence will be paint removed from the chassis rail beneath the master cylinder
A.D.B sydney (02) 9518 -1088 ask for John
FRONT SEATS, weld broken seat bases or replace as necessary
REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHES, check for cracked or deformed bushes & replace as necessary.
also check & replace rear sway bar links & "D" bushes as necessary
steering & suspension components Gowanbrae Melbourne 0419 - 488687 ask for andrew
TPS SENSOR, linear measurement should vary between 300Ω - 4kΩ between the centre & outer pins when turning in both directions....one measurement will increase as you turn it, the other should decrease as you turn it
... you can usually tell if it's not within spec by the way the transmission shifts...erratic
OXY SENSOR, (Hego) replace every 100,000km or whenever the head gasket blows as coolant destroys the sensors.
3 wire NGK/NTK, ACA or BORG WARNER are probably the best choice for the 4.0L engine
smear anti-seize on the thread before installation.
P.A.V in Coburg Victoria supply hego sensors at discount prices (03) 9354 - 2962 ask for Minas
POWER STEERING, if any component leaks, replace it....beware of power steering fluid leaking into the alternator,
as the fluid turns the carbon brushes in the alternator to paste, when this happens the alternator light stays on & it wont charge the battery.....fix power steering leak, replace alternator brushes to avoid being stranded....
after market hoses that don't leak are available from Prestige Power Steering in Melbourne (03) 9464 - 2282 ask for Luke
USE ONLY DEXRON 2 OR 3 FLUID IN THE POWER STEERING RESERVOIR
TRANSMISSION, replace oil & filter every 20,000km, adjust bands as necessary, replace rear bush & seal as necessary
replace inhibitor switch as necessary, install earth strap from trans housing to chassis cross member,
replace O ring on dip stick tube, replace trans mount as necessary.
if a trans flush is required, (approx 15 litres for a full flush) the line at the bottom of the radiator is the supply & the top line is the return.
USE ONLY CASTROL TQ95 or CALTEX LE95 in the transmission.
if the coolant boils on a regular basis, your transmission might require a service...the transmission cooling pipes share the same radiator as the cooling system.
if the throttle position sensor (TPS) fails, the transmission will shift erratically & may not shift to overdrive (torque converter will not lock)
if a solenoid or temp sensor fails the transmission wont function correctly & may result in the ecu switching to "limp mode"
ie: stays in 3rd gear.....you can purchase service kits from Burson Auto Parts for around $20
NOTE: (1) selector shaft seal part #P6042...requires 2 seals, 1 behind the selector actuator & 1 behind the inhibitor switch.
NOTE: (2) there are two rear seal types available, boot & non boot, the easiest seal to fit with good results is part #P6231 non boot type for around $5 from repco or bearing & seal retailers.
STRUTS & SHOCKS, if it feels like your driving a boat....replace them !
ULTIMA shocks are a massive improvement over factory munroe units for under $300 for front & rear
CV Joints Australia (sydney) carry an extensive range of ultima products at heavily discounted prices
(02) 9743 - 7788 ask for John
ALTERNATOR, check & replace regulator as necessary, check carbon brushes & slip ring for wear & change bearings.
alternator should charge between 14.25 volts to 14.55 volts @ 2000 rpm, if it's not, replace the regulator.
its a simple job, brushes are 23x8x5mm available on ebay for $13 slip rings are $18, bearings are available from cbc for around $40
all you need is degreaser, a vice, soldering iron, #2 Phillips screwdriver, socket set, multimeter & a paper clip.
A.E.S (QLD) carry most alternator parts 0416 - 733457 ask for Rick
AIR BAG ECU REPLACEMENT, here’s a tip, enlarge the hole in the dash moulding behind the fuse box cover & use 1/4 drive extensions to access the 3 green airbag ecu bolts, remove the fuse box & use 1/4 drive sockets, a mirror & a torch to access the bolts you cant see.
installation is the same as the removal procedure, but use blu tac to hold the bolts in the socket instead of using a magnet.
...saves removing the dash.....remove the driver’s seat so you can lay down on the job.
AIRBAG RESISTORS ( code 32 or 33 )
drivers side resistor =2Ω located on the airbag ecu loom just above the drivers side kick panel terminated inside a grey plug with 1 brown wire & 1 pink with black trace wire.
passenger side resistor =1.3kΩ located on the main ecu loom just above the passenger side kick panel under the glove box compartment terminated inside a grey plug with 2 red wires, the resistor is in series with a diode terminated inside a black plug with 1 red wire & 1 black with green trace wire located on the same loom under the heater box.
CRUISE CONTROL, if the cruise unit wont engage, check the steering wheel switches, clock spring & electrical connections at the unit...i found problems with connections that affected both engage & disengage functions.
to rectify the problem i cleaned the electrical connections & replaced the brake light switch located on the brake pedal assembly Tridon part # TBS060 $15 from Bursons and the disengage switch located on the brake master cylinder Ford part # EF9F924A from Ford $37......the cruise control now functions correctly.
RUST IN FRONT GUARDS BEHIND FRONT MUDFLAPS, after disassembling the front inner guard plastics to replace an electric aerial i found large deposits of soil & debris that accumulated over the years. the problem i found is the felt lining that shields the inner guard and door crevice was holding water. debris would enter via the grille under the windscreen wiper arms & not be able to exit because the felt retained the moisture & debris causing rust in the guards & the sill. upon closer inspection (after cleaning it all out) i found the sill wasn't caulked properly & the felt to be too long, so i decided to cut 30mm off the bottom of the felt liner, to let water & grit out & treated the rust with rust converter, then caulked the joints, sealed it with body deadener & reassembled everything....the felt still retains water but is able to drip dry instead of constantly absorbing water & the 30mm gap i created now allows leaves & dirt to pass through the gap.....
it now stays clean & doesn’t rust.
HEADLIGHTS, tend to fade due to weather & UV exposure causing discolouration, this can be removed with a fine cutting compound...you can cut & polish the headlight lenses the same way you polish your paint work to restore them...
Permatex make a headlight restoration kit that works for around $30 permatex part # 09135
i've also encountered broken headlight globe clips & burned wiring behind the globe access covers on several vehicles,
causing short circuits & inoperative headlights.
NOTE: upgrading headlight globes, "NARVA BLUE POWER" are a massive improvement over standard globes
Falcon H1 narva part # 48530BL2 LO BEAM 55W
Falcon H3 narva part # 48531BL2 HI BEAM 55W
Fairmont H4 narva part # 48532BL2 HI/LO BEAM 60/55W
Fairmont H3 narva part # 48531BL2 HI BEAM 55W
ELECTRIC AERIAL, mast should be lubricated periodically, CRC, RP7, WD40 all work fine
if yours is seized, bent or broken a replacement mast is available for around $35 from most automotive stores.
it's simple to replace & if possible lube the nylon cable with lithium grease when you replace it.
DRIVELINE VIBRATIONS, check the following, tyres, damaged rims, engine & transmission mounts, loose torque converter,
loose flywheel, harmonic balancer, bent or dented tail shaft, weights missing from the tailshaft, universal joints, worn wheel bearings, worn stator bush in transmission extension housing, bent axle or damaged diff centre, missfiring engine, worn trailing arm bushes....if your tailshaft has a vibration dampener on the front yoke, check the rubber bonding the weight to the shaft, if the rubber is deteriorated or damaged you can remove the dampener with a press or angle grinder.
wheel nut torque specs: 110Nm or 82 ftlbs
Neway Wheel Repairs in Heidelberg repair alloy & steel rims (colin 03 9457 3141)
ELECTRIC WINDOWS, lube window mechanisms & cables with lithium grease, lube window rubbers with silicone spray.
i replaced my EF window rubbers with ED rubbers because they have a felt lining in the window track....the EF rubbers are all rubber....felt is smoother on glass than rubber, the windows glide smoother & quieter on felt.
KEYLESS REMOTE PROGRAMMING.
1 Get in your car and close the door,
2 Turn your ignition to accessories,
3 Press the rear demister button 3 times in 5 seconds....Your doors should then lock, this means your remote is ready to program.
4 Simply press unlock on your remote.
5 Turn off & remove key, then test to make sure it's ok
CLIMATE CONTROL: with the engine @ operating temp turn key to accessories & press mode & off simultaneously
the climate control will do a self test illuminating all of the LCD & perform a reset...if no errors are stored the unit will turn off.
you may need to do the self test twice to ensure it resets properly.
NOTE: if the heater tap has constant vacuum applied to the diaphragm the heater will not work.(closed position)
default is open with no vacuum applied, closed is with vacuum applied
i found a problem with a climate control that would not allow the heater tap to open in any mode.
no error was stored in the climate control unit & the blend motor appeared to work correctly.
selecting airflow from face to feet to windscreen worked fine... AC OK ...but no heater.
the ECU had a stored code 523 (no air blower fan signal or blown fuse) fuses checked OK
i was advised the entire dash will need to be removed to remedy the problem....$$$ka ching$$$
i believed the vent solenoid valves behind the radio to be problematic (stuck on allowing constant vacuum)
i decided with nothing to lose except a few days to remove the dash & go fault finding i disconnected the vacuum hose from the heater tap & poked it up through to the top of the inlet manifold, poured several teaspoons of WD40 into a cup, and inserted the heater vacuum hose into the cup allowing it to suck in the WD40....it took about 5 seconds for the vacuum to stop.
the lubricant cleaned out the solenoid valves & i plugged the hose back onto the heater tap & heater operation was restored.
it worked for me...it might work for you too :o)....saved me removing the dash & keeping my wallet looking pregnant...haha
ENGINE OVERHAUL TIPS:
if you deck the block, bolt the timing cover to the block with the dowels inserted & machine them together at the same time
use a paper sump gasket rather than cork
use hylomar spray, lube & torque new head bolts in sequence to 40Nm, then retorque in sequence to 80Nm, then retorque in sequence to 110Nm
SMART LOCK PROBLEM, ie:- car wont start ....remove body control module (BCM), located behind the dash facia in front & just above the drivers left knee when sitting in the driver’s seat...
remove unit, disassemble & resolder dry solder joints, reassemble, reinstall & test.
if you require a smartlock bypass module with detailed installation instructions for around $100 delivered email: fordfam1@optusnet.com.au (murray)
NO START, check interior light, fuses, corroded fuse box, relays, transmission inhibitor switch, battery terminals, starter motor solenoid failure, fuel pump or relay, coil pack etc, if main fuses blow during cranking, check for seized aircon compressor.
ROUGH IDLE, replace both engine mounts & K frame brackets with square type EL series 2 mounts,
Kelpro part # (mount) MT8370, (bracket) MTB8370 available at Repco for around $200
original round hydraulic mounts collapse causing rough idle / vibration & are no longer commercially available
check ECU for codes, a faulty ecu may not idle properly
check spark plug gaps 1.0mm -1.1mm for petrol, & 0.9mm for LPG
check leads for damage or high resistance...anything over 7kΩ is usually unserviceable
check or replace coolant temp sensor
check or replace coil pack
check & clean ISC with carby cleaner, remove & disassemble the black cap & clean the felt filters out.
clean throttle body with carby cleaner
check, clean or replace pcv valve
check or replace HEGO (oxy) sensor
clean or replace injectors, O rings, baskets & pintle caps
check or replace switch on steering rack
remove & clean the IAT sensor located in the plennum chamber under the throttle body with CRC mass airflow sensor cleaner
check for vacuum leaks...ie inlet manifold gasket, hoses, brake booster, tank behind drivers side front guard,
charcoal canister behind passenger front guard etc.
RUNS ROUGH, check the following...water in fuel, stale fuel, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relief valve, fuel pump gauze filter, harmonic balancer, injectors, coil pack, spark plugs, leads, head gasket, broken head bolt, broken rocker arm, collapsed lifter, inlet manifold gasket, vacuum leak, seized aircon compressor, pcv valve, cracked carbon canister, blocked fuel filter Z373, blocked air filter A491, broken timing chain guide or tensioner, engine mounts, map sensor, blocked catalytic converter, worn throttle shaft, tps sensor, iat sensor, hego sensor,
coolant temp sensor, dirty isc & throttle body.
EF EDIS (electronic distributorless ignition system) has infrared transmitter/receiver & rotating vane.
ensure the rotating vane & light gap is clean & lubricate the center shaft bushings.
unit is not adjustable.
EL DISTRIBUTOR, has a magnetic hall effect sensor & rotating vane.
remove any metal filings attached to the magnet, ensure the rotating vane is clean & lubricate the center shaft bushings.
if no spark is present check tfi module, dizzy cap, rotor button, coil lead, coil & electrical connections.
when replacing the tfi module use heatsink compound sparingly.
NOTE: after discovering an acceleration problem similar to a vacuum leak or fuel delivery, i scanned the ecu with a dedicated scan tool, the ecu generated code 111 during KOEO & KOER tests....after several days of fault finding,
replacing gaskets, injectors, hoses and pulling my hair out trying to find the problem, i replaced the ecu...problem solved!
i learned....code 111 is'nt always a 100% guarantee that everything is ok...so if in doubt replace the ecu.
if you require a professional scan tool thats aussie made for around $200 delivered & works on XF to EL, comes with instructions, cables & everything you need straight out of the box, email: fordfam1@optusnet.com.au (murray)
LPG MODIFICATIONS, replace airbox clip springs with coil type springs,
replace thermostat with a hiflow unit Tridon part # TT2028-195,
replace ignition leads with inductive stainless steel bosch leads or equivalent,
replace spark plugs with NGK part # BPR6EY, 0.9mm gap
use a hacksaw & cut airbox snorkel at approx 30 degrees from tip to mount parallel to filter element.
replace air filter element with K&N part # 33-2015
secure the small black plastic F type vacuum connector Ford Part# XE6C318A located on the plennum chamber under the throttle body with a hose clamp so it can't blow off if it backfires.
replace the PCV valve with a steel unit Ford Part# AEV13
replace the rear coil springs & update the shocks with heavy duty units to accommodate the lpg tank.
FRONT END KNOCK, replace swaybar links & "D" bushes...physically measure swaybar diameter as they vary from 26-27mm
check struts, bushes, worn ball joints, worn steering rack including tie rod ends, worn or loose intermediate shaft, loose K frame, engine mounts & worn radius rod bushes.....Super Pro blue urethane suspension components are good value.
COOLING SYSTEM, clean coolant reservoir with 1/2 cup of washing powder ,1/2 cup of sand & 1/2 litre of non alkaline degreaser...block all entry / exits with plastic bags & cable ties, add cleaning agents & shake vigorously for 15 minutes......
repeat if necessary....
replace radiator cap with a 120kpa "non recovery tank type", replace thermostat with a hiflow unit Tridon part # TT2028-195,
replace coolant with GM coolant that meets or exceeds HN2043-AS2108:1:1997 & mix 50/50 with fresh water,
install an earth strap from radiator to radiator support panel, check heater tap for rust & replace if necessary.
check hoses & pump, check thermostat housing for leaks or corrosion, test the cooling system for electrolysis using a multimeter 0.3v max
if you have a coolant level sensor, check or replace the sensors rubber grommet in the reservoir housing (same grommet as windscreen washer bottle)
fill the cooling system to the minimum line when cold to allow for expansion when hot.
pressure test if possible & check thermo fan operation by temporarily unplugging the coolant temp sensor.
if the fans dont run full speed with the coolant temp sensor unplugged check the relays & sockets behind the passenger headlight.
NOTE: vehicles fitted with LPG have a larger cooling system capacity due to converter & hoses and coolant should be mixed & added accordingly....i recommend NULON long life (green) coolant (1058 gm/p/l glycol).
HINT: if your thermostat housing is partially corroded where it mates the head use a bastard file & file the surface flat
then coat the new gasket with a suitable sealant & bolt it back on.
if you have idle or acceleration problems when cold, check or replace the coolant temp sensor Tridon part # TSC011
DASH BOARD FUSE BOX COVER, gently heat & manipulate locking tabs with a hot air gun for desired fit.
SIDE MIRRORS, use fuller brand fulaprene (grey neoprene rubber compound) to secure broken or loose side mirror assemblies.
it's temperature tolerant to 80 degrees Celsius, UV stabilized, water resistant, sticks anything to anything...better than factory glue...& available from bunnings for $14 per tube....you need a caulking gun...saves buying new mirrors & stops the mirrors vibrating all the time.
BONNET & BOOT STRUTS, replace as necessary, if boot strut brackets have broken off, remove rear outer seat cushions & seat belts, drill holes through brackets & parcel shelf support to accommodate bolts to secure the brackets in their original position......Gas Strut Engineering Fawkner Victoria (03) 9357 - 2821
UNIVERSAL JOINTS, install unis & rebalance tail shaft....O.E.M tail shafts are NOT balanced accurately.
balancing services australia in coburg victoria fully reconditioned mine, new unis, balanced & painted for $145 same day.
B.S.A (03) 9480 - 4040 ask for Murray
BRAKES, check & machine brake rotors or replace as necessary, check slide sleeves on callipers to ensure they aren’t seized,
replace brake fluid with "SUPER DOT 4" or "DOT 5.1" with a boiling point no less than 260 degrees Celsius.
clean ABS sensors & tone rings, rear handbrake shoes should measure 189.7mm from edge to edge.
hand brake lever should be adjusted for roadworthy requirement of 4 clicks
front rotor minimum thickness = 22mm, rear rotor minimum thickness = 8.5mm
ADB cross drilled & slotted rotors with Bendix CT pads all round & GS610 brake fluid are an ideal brake upgrade under $450
if the engine runs rough check the vacuum booster for vacuum leaks
if the brakes dont respond properly check the master cylinder for brake fluid leaks .....evidence will be paint removed from the chassis rail beneath the master cylinder
A.D.B sydney (02) 9518 -1088 ask for John
FRONT SEATS, weld broken seat bases or replace as necessary
REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHES, check for cracked or deformed bushes & replace as necessary.
also check & replace rear sway bar links & "D" bushes as necessary
steering & suspension components Gowanbrae Melbourne 0419 - 488687 ask for andrew
TPS SENSOR, linear measurement should vary between 300Ω - 4kΩ between the centre & outer pins when turning in both directions....one measurement will increase as you turn it, the other should decrease as you turn it
... you can usually tell if it's not within spec by the way the transmission shifts...erratic
OXY SENSOR, (Hego) replace every 100,000km or whenever the head gasket blows as coolant destroys the sensors.
3 wire NGK/NTK, ACA or BORG WARNER are probably the best choice for the 4.0L engine
smear anti-seize on the thread before installation.
P.A.V in Coburg Victoria supply hego sensors at discount prices (03) 9354 - 2962 ask for Minas
POWER STEERING, if any component leaks, replace it....beware of power steering fluid leaking into the alternator,
as the fluid turns the carbon brushes in the alternator to paste, when this happens the alternator light stays on & it wont charge the battery.....fix power steering leak, replace alternator brushes to avoid being stranded....
after market hoses that don't leak are available from Prestige Power Steering in Melbourne (03) 9464 - 2282 ask for Luke
USE ONLY DEXRON 2 OR 3 FLUID IN THE POWER STEERING RESERVOIR
TRANSMISSION, replace oil & filter every 20,000km, adjust bands as necessary, replace rear bush & seal as necessary
replace inhibitor switch as necessary, install earth strap from trans housing to chassis cross member,
replace O ring on dip stick tube, replace trans mount as necessary.
if a trans flush is required, (approx 15 litres for a full flush) the line at the bottom of the radiator is the supply & the top line is the return.
USE ONLY CASTROL TQ95 or CALTEX LE95 in the transmission.
if the coolant boils on a regular basis, your transmission might require a service...the transmission cooling pipes share the same radiator as the cooling system.
if the throttle position sensor (TPS) fails, the transmission will shift erratically & may not shift to overdrive (torque converter will not lock)
if a solenoid or temp sensor fails the transmission wont function correctly & may result in the ecu switching to "limp mode"
ie: stays in 3rd gear.....you can purchase service kits from Burson Auto Parts for around $20
NOTE: (1) selector shaft seal part #P6042...requires 2 seals, 1 behind the selector actuator & 1 behind the inhibitor switch.
NOTE: (2) there are two rear seal types available, boot & non boot, the easiest seal to fit with good results is part #P6231 non boot type for around $5 from repco or bearing & seal retailers.
STRUTS & SHOCKS, if it feels like your driving a boat....replace them !
ULTIMA shocks are a massive improvement over factory munroe units for under $300 for front & rear
CV Joints Australia (sydney) carry an extensive range of ultima products at heavily discounted prices
(02) 9743 - 7788 ask for John
ALTERNATOR, check & replace regulator as necessary, check carbon brushes & slip ring for wear & change bearings.
alternator should charge between 14.25 volts to 14.55 volts @ 2000 rpm, if it's not, replace the regulator.
its a simple job, brushes are 23x8x5mm available on ebay for $13 slip rings are $18, bearings are available from cbc for around $40
all you need is degreaser, a vice, soldering iron, #2 Phillips screwdriver, socket set, multimeter & a paper clip.
A.E.S (QLD) carry most alternator parts 0416 - 733457 ask for Rick
AIR BAG ECU REPLACEMENT, here’s a tip, enlarge the hole in the dash moulding behind the fuse box cover & use 1/4 drive extensions to access the 3 green airbag ecu bolts, remove the fuse box & use 1/4 drive sockets, a mirror & a torch to access the bolts you cant see.
installation is the same as the removal procedure, but use blu tac to hold the bolts in the socket instead of using a magnet.
...saves removing the dash.....remove the driver’s seat so you can lay down on the job.
AIRBAG RESISTORS ( code 32 or 33 )
drivers side resistor =2Ω located on the airbag ecu loom just above the drivers side kick panel terminated inside a grey plug with 1 brown wire & 1 pink with black trace wire.
passenger side resistor =1.3kΩ located on the main ecu loom just above the passenger side kick panel under the glove box compartment terminated inside a grey plug with 2 red wires, the resistor is in series with a diode terminated inside a black plug with 1 red wire & 1 black with green trace wire located on the same loom under the heater box.
CRUISE CONTROL, if the cruise unit wont engage, check the steering wheel switches, clock spring & electrical connections at the unit...i found problems with connections that affected both engage & disengage functions.
to rectify the problem i cleaned the electrical connections & replaced the brake light switch located on the brake pedal assembly Tridon part # TBS060 $15 from Bursons and the disengage switch located on the brake master cylinder Ford part # EF9F924A from Ford $37......the cruise control now functions correctly.
RUST IN FRONT GUARDS BEHIND FRONT MUDFLAPS, after disassembling the front inner guard plastics to replace an electric aerial i found large deposits of soil & debris that accumulated over the years. the problem i found is the felt lining that shields the inner guard and door crevice was holding water. debris would enter via the grille under the windscreen wiper arms & not be able to exit because the felt retained the moisture & debris causing rust in the guards & the sill. upon closer inspection (after cleaning it all out) i found the sill wasn't caulked properly & the felt to be too long, so i decided to cut 30mm off the bottom of the felt liner, to let water & grit out & treated the rust with rust converter, then caulked the joints, sealed it with body deadener & reassembled everything....the felt still retains water but is able to drip dry instead of constantly absorbing water & the 30mm gap i created now allows leaves & dirt to pass through the gap.....
it now stays clean & doesn’t rust.
HEADLIGHTS, tend to fade due to weather & UV exposure causing discolouration, this can be removed with a fine cutting compound...you can cut & polish the headlight lenses the same way you polish your paint work to restore them...
Permatex make a headlight restoration kit that works for around $30 permatex part # 09135
i've also encountered broken headlight globe clips & burned wiring behind the globe access covers on several vehicles,
causing short circuits & inoperative headlights.
NOTE: upgrading headlight globes, "NARVA BLUE POWER" are a massive improvement over standard globes
Falcon H1 narva part # 48530BL2 LO BEAM 55W
Falcon H3 narva part # 48531BL2 HI BEAM 55W
Fairmont H4 narva part # 48532BL2 HI/LO BEAM 60/55W
Fairmont H3 narva part # 48531BL2 HI BEAM 55W
ELECTRIC AERIAL, mast should be lubricated periodically, CRC, RP7, WD40 all work fine
if yours is seized, bent or broken a replacement mast is available for around $35 from most automotive stores.
it's simple to replace & if possible lube the nylon cable with lithium grease when you replace it.
DRIVELINE VIBRATIONS, check the following, tyres, damaged rims, engine & transmission mounts, loose torque converter,
loose flywheel, harmonic balancer, bent or dented tail shaft, weights missing from the tailshaft, universal joints, worn wheel bearings, worn stator bush in transmission extension housing, bent axle or damaged diff centre, missfiring engine, worn trailing arm bushes....if your tailshaft has a vibration dampener on the front yoke, check the rubber bonding the weight to the shaft, if the rubber is deteriorated or damaged you can remove the dampener with a press or angle grinder.
wheel nut torque specs: 110Nm or 82 ftlbs
Neway Wheel Repairs in Heidelberg repair alloy & steel rims (colin 03 9457 3141)
ELECTRIC WINDOWS, lube window mechanisms & cables with lithium grease, lube window rubbers with silicone spray.
i replaced my EF window rubbers with ED rubbers because they have a felt lining in the window track....the EF rubbers are all rubber....felt is smoother on glass than rubber, the windows glide smoother & quieter on felt.
KEYLESS REMOTE PROGRAMMING.
1 Get in your car and close the door,
2 Turn your ignition to accessories,
3 Press the rear demister button 3 times in 5 seconds....Your doors should then lock, this means your remote is ready to program.
4 Simply press unlock on your remote.
5 Turn off & remove key, then test to make sure it's ok
CLIMATE CONTROL: with the engine @ operating temp turn key to accessories & press mode & off simultaneously
the climate control will do a self test illuminating all of the LCD & perform a reset...if no errors are stored the unit will turn off.
you may need to do the self test twice to ensure it resets properly.
NOTE: if the heater tap has constant vacuum applied to the diaphragm the heater will not work.(closed position)
default is open with no vacuum applied, closed is with vacuum applied
i found a problem with a climate control that would not allow the heater tap to open in any mode.
no error was stored in the climate control unit & the blend motor appeared to work correctly.
selecting airflow from face to feet to windscreen worked fine... AC OK ...but no heater.
the ECU had a stored code 523 (no air blower fan signal or blown fuse) fuses checked OK
i was advised the entire dash will need to be removed to remedy the problem....$$$ka ching$$$
i believed the vent solenoid valves behind the radio to be problematic (stuck on allowing constant vacuum)
i decided with nothing to lose except a few days to remove the dash & go fault finding i disconnected the vacuum hose from the heater tap & poked it up through to the top of the inlet manifold, poured several teaspoons of WD40 into a cup, and inserted the heater vacuum hose into the cup allowing it to suck in the WD40....it took about 5 seconds for the vacuum to stop.
the lubricant cleaned out the solenoid valves & i plugged the hose back onto the heater tap & heater operation was restored.
it worked for me...it might work for you too :o)....saved me removing the dash & keeping my wallet looking pregnant...haha
ENGINE OVERHAUL TIPS:
if you deck the block, bolt the timing cover to the block with the dowels inserted & machine them together at the same time
use a paper sump gasket rather than cork
use hylomar spray, lube & torque new head bolts in sequence to 40Nm, then retorque in sequence to 80Nm, then retorque in sequence to 110Nm