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bushmechanic
20-10-2009, 10:59 PM
Hi guys & gals, after doing an extensive expensive full rebuild on a 95 EF Fairmont (4.0L Engine auto) i found numerous mechanical & electrical problems that required attention & decided to document some basic info that may be beneficial to you....service manuals are available on cd in .pdf format from ebay for around $10, search for ef or el workshop manual

SMART LOCK PROBLEM, ie:- car wont start ....remove body control module (BCM), located behind the dash facia in front & just above the drivers left knee when sitting in the driver’s seat...
remove unit, disassemble & resolder dry solder joints, reassemble, reinstall & test.
if you require a smartlock bypass module with detailed installation instructions for around $100 delivered email: fordfam1@optusnet.com.au (murray)

NO START, check interior light, fuses, corroded fuse box, relays, transmission inhibitor switch, battery terminals, starter motor solenoid failure, fuel pump or relay, coil pack etc, if main fuses blow during cranking, check for seized aircon compressor.

ROUGH IDLE, replace both engine mounts & K frame brackets with square type EL series 2 mounts,
Kelpro part # (mount) MT8370, (bracket) MTB8370 available at Repco for around $200
original round hydraulic mounts collapse causing rough idle / vibration & are no longer commercially available
check ECU for codes, a faulty ecu may not idle properly
check spark plug gaps 1.0mm -1.1mm for petrol, & 0.9mm for LPG
check leads for damage or high resistance...anything over 7kΩ is usually unserviceable
check or replace coolant temp sensor
check or replace coil pack
check & clean ISC with carby cleaner, remove & disassemble the black cap & clean the felt filters out.
clean throttle body with carby cleaner
check, clean or replace pcv valve
check or replace HEGO (oxy) sensor
clean or replace injectors, O rings, baskets & pintle caps
check or replace switch on steering rack
remove & clean the IAT sensor located in the plennum chamber under the throttle body with CRC mass airflow sensor cleaner
check for vacuum leaks...ie inlet manifold gasket, hoses, brake booster, tank behind drivers side front guard,
charcoal canister behind passenger front guard etc.

RUNS ROUGH, check the following...water in fuel, stale fuel, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relief valve, fuel pump gauze filter, harmonic balancer, injectors, coil pack, spark plugs, leads, head gasket, broken head bolt, broken rocker arm, collapsed lifter, inlet manifold gasket, vacuum leak, seized aircon compressor, pcv valve, cracked carbon canister, blocked fuel filter Z373, blocked air filter A491, broken timing chain guide or tensioner, engine mounts, map sensor, blocked catalytic converter, worn throttle shaft, tps sensor, iat sensor, hego sensor,
coolant temp sensor, dirty isc & throttle body.

EF EDIS (electronic distributorless ignition system) has infrared transmitter/receiver & rotating vane.
ensure the rotating vane & light gap is clean & lubricate the center shaft bushings.
unit is not adjustable.

EL DISTRIBUTOR, has a magnetic hall effect sensor & rotating vane.
remove any metal filings attached to the magnet, ensure the rotating vane is clean & lubricate the center shaft bushings.
if no spark is present check tfi module, dizzy cap, rotor button, coil lead, coil & electrical connections.
when replacing the tfi module use heatsink compound sparingly.

NOTE: after discovering an acceleration problem similar to a vacuum leak or fuel delivery, i scanned the ecu with a dedicated scan tool, the ecu generated code 111 during KOEO & KOER tests....after several days of fault finding,
replacing gaskets, injectors, hoses and pulling my hair out trying to find the problem, i replaced the ecu...problem solved!
i learned....code 111 is'nt always a 100% guarantee that everything is ok...so if in doubt replace the ecu.
if you require a professional scan tool thats aussie made for around $200 delivered & works on XF to EL, comes with instructions, cables & everything you need straight out of the box, email: fordfam1@optusnet.com.au (murray)

LPG MODIFICATIONS, replace airbox clip springs with coil type springs,
replace thermostat with a hiflow unit Tridon part # TT2028-195,
replace ignition leads with inductive stainless steel bosch leads or equivalent,
replace spark plugs with NGK part # BPR6EY, 0.9mm gap
use a hacksaw & cut airbox snorkel at approx 30 degrees from tip to mount parallel to filter element.
replace air filter element with K&N part # 33-2015
secure the small black plastic F type vacuum connector Ford Part# XE6C318A located on the plennum chamber under the throttle body with a hose clamp so it can't blow off if it backfires.
replace the PCV valve with a steel unit Ford Part# AEV13
replace the rear coil springs & update the shocks with heavy duty units to accommodate the lpg tank.

FRONT END KNOCK, replace swaybar links & "D" bushes...physically measure swaybar diameter as they vary from 26-27mm
check struts, bushes, worn ball joints, worn steering rack including tie rod ends, worn or loose intermediate shaft, loose K frame, engine mounts & worn radius rod bushes.....Super Pro blue urethane suspension components are good value.

COOLING SYSTEM, clean coolant reservoir with 1/2 cup of washing powder ,1/2 cup of sand & 1/2 litre of non alkaline degreaser...block all entry / exits with plastic bags & cable ties, add cleaning agents & shake vigorously for 15 minutes......
repeat if necessary....
replace radiator cap with a 120kpa "non recovery tank type", replace thermostat with a hiflow unit Tridon part # TT2028-195,
replace coolant with GM coolant that meets or exceeds HN2043-AS2108:1:1997 & mix 50/50 with fresh water,
install an earth strap from radiator to radiator support panel, check heater tap for rust & replace if necessary.
check hoses & pump, check thermostat housing for leaks or corrosion, test the cooling system for electrolysis using a multimeter 0.3v max
if you have a coolant level sensor, check or replace the sensors rubber grommet in the reservoir housing (same grommet as windscreen washer bottle)
fill the cooling system to the minimum line when cold to allow for expansion when hot.
pressure test if possible & check thermo fan operation by temporarily unplugging the coolant temp sensor.
if the fans dont run full speed with the coolant temp sensor unplugged check the relays & sockets behind the passenger headlight.
NOTE: vehicles fitted with LPG have a larger cooling system capacity due to converter & hoses and coolant should be mixed & added accordingly....i recommend NULON long life (green) coolant (1058 gm/p/l glycol).
HINT: if your thermostat housing is partially corroded where it mates the head use a bastard file & file the surface flat
then coat the new gasket with a suitable sealant & bolt it back on.
if you have idle or acceleration problems when cold, check or replace the coolant temp sensor Tridon part # TSC011

DASH BOARD FUSE BOX COVER, gently heat & manipulate locking tabs with a hot air gun for desired fit.

SIDE MIRRORS, use fuller brand fulaprene (grey neoprene rubber compound) to secure broken or loose side mirror assemblies.
it's temperature tolerant to 80 degrees Celsius, UV stabilized, water resistant, sticks anything to anything...better than factory glue...& available from bunnings for $14 per tube....you need a caulking gun...saves buying new mirrors & stops the mirrors vibrating all the time.

BONNET & BOOT STRUTS, replace as necessary, if boot strut brackets have broken off, remove rear outer seat cushions & seat belts, drill holes through brackets & parcel shelf support to accommodate bolts to secure the brackets in their original position......Gas Strut Engineering Fawkner Victoria (03) 9357 - 2821

UNIVERSAL JOINTS, install unis & rebalance tail shaft....O.E.M tail shafts are NOT balanced accurately.
balancing services australia in coburg victoria fully reconditioned mine, new unis, balanced & painted for $145 same day.
B.S.A (03) 9480 - 4040 ask for Murray

BRAKES, check & machine brake rotors or replace as necessary, check slide sleeves on callipers to ensure they aren’t seized,
replace brake fluid with "SUPER DOT 4" or "DOT 5.1" with a boiling point no less than 260 degrees Celsius.
clean ABS sensors & tone rings, rear handbrake shoes should measure 189.7mm from edge to edge.
hand brake lever should be adjusted for roadworthy requirement of 4 clicks
front rotor minimum thickness = 22mm, rear rotor minimum thickness = 8.5mm
ADB cross drilled & slotted rotors with Bendix CT pads all round & GS610 brake fluid are an ideal brake upgrade under $450
if the engine runs rough check the vacuum booster for vacuum leaks
if the brakes dont respond properly check the master cylinder for brake fluid leaks .....evidence will be paint removed from the chassis rail beneath the master cylinder
A.D.B sydney (02) 9518 -1088 ask for John

FRONT SEATS, weld broken seat bases or replace as necessary

REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHES, check for cracked or deformed bushes & replace as necessary.
also check & replace rear sway bar links & "D" bushes as necessary
steering & suspension components Gowanbrae Melbourne 0419 - 488687 ask for andrew

TPS SENSOR, linear measurement should vary between 300Ω - 4kΩ between the centre & outer pins when turning in both directions....one measurement will increase as you turn it, the other should decrease as you turn it
... you can usually tell if it's not within spec by the way the transmission shifts...erratic

OXY SENSOR, (Hego) replace every 100,000km or whenever the head gasket blows as coolant destroys the sensors.
3 wire NGK/NTK, ACA or BORG WARNER are probably the best choice for the 4.0L engine
smear anti-seize on the thread before installation.
P.A.V in Coburg Victoria supply hego sensors at discount prices (03) 9354 - 2962 ask for Minas

POWER STEERING, if any component leaks, replace it....beware of power steering fluid leaking into the alternator,
as the fluid turns the carbon brushes in the alternator to paste, when this happens the alternator light stays on & it wont charge the battery.....fix power steering leak, replace alternator brushes to avoid being stranded....
after market hoses that don't leak are available from Prestige Power Steering in Melbourne (03) 9464 - 2282 ask for Luke
USE ONLY DEXRON 2 OR 3 FLUID IN THE POWER STEERING RESERVOIR

TRANSMISSION, replace oil & filter every 20,000km, adjust bands as necessary, replace rear bush & seal as necessary
replace inhibitor switch as necessary, install earth strap from trans housing to chassis cross member,
replace O ring on dip stick tube, replace trans mount as necessary.
if a trans flush is required, (approx 15 litres for a full flush) the line at the bottom of the radiator is the supply & the top line is the return.
USE ONLY CASTROL TQ95 or CALTEX LE95 in the transmission.
if the coolant boils on a regular basis, your transmission might require a service...the transmission cooling pipes share the same radiator as the cooling system.
if the throttle position sensor (TPS) fails, the transmission will shift erratically & may not shift to overdrive (torque converter will not lock)
if a solenoid or temp sensor fails the transmission wont function correctly & may result in the ecu switching to "limp mode"
ie: stays in 3rd gear.....you can purchase service kits from Burson Auto Parts for around $20
NOTE: (1) selector shaft seal part #P6042...requires 2 seals, 1 behind the selector actuator & 1 behind the inhibitor switch.
NOTE: (2) there are two rear seal types available, boot & non boot, the easiest seal to fit with good results is part #P6231 non boot type for around $5 from repco or bearing & seal retailers.

STRUTS & SHOCKS, if it feels like your driving a boat....replace them !
ULTIMA shocks are a massive improvement over factory munroe units for under $300 for front & rear
CV Joints Australia (sydney) carry an extensive range of ultima products at heavily discounted prices
(02) 9743 - 7788 ask for John

ALTERNATOR, check & replace regulator as necessary, check carbon brushes & slip ring for wear & change bearings.
alternator should charge between 14.25 volts to 14.55 volts @ 2000 rpm, if it's not, replace the regulator.
its a simple job, brushes are 23x8x5mm available on ebay for $13 slip rings are $18, bearings are available from cbc for around $40
all you need is degreaser, a vice, soldering iron, #2 Phillips screwdriver, socket set, multimeter & a paper clip.
A.E.S (QLD) carry most alternator parts 0416 - 733457 ask for Rick

AIR BAG ECU REPLACEMENT, here’s a tip, enlarge the hole in the dash moulding behind the fuse box cover & use 1/4 drive extensions to access the 3 green airbag ecu bolts, remove the fuse box & use 1/4 drive sockets, a mirror & a torch to access the bolts you cant see.
installation is the same as the removal procedure, but use blu tac to hold the bolts in the socket instead of using a magnet.
...saves removing the dash.....remove the driver’s seat so you can lay down on the job.
AIRBAG RESISTORS ( code 32 or 33 )
drivers side resistor =2Ω located on the airbag ecu loom just above the drivers side kick panel terminated inside a grey plug with 1 brown wire & 1 pink with black trace wire.
passenger side resistor =1.3kΩ located on the main ecu loom just above the passenger side kick panel under the glove box compartment terminated inside a grey plug with 2 red wires, the resistor is in series with a diode terminated inside a black plug with 1 red wire & 1 black with green trace wire located on the same loom under the heater box.

CRUISE CONTROL, if the cruise unit wont engage, check the steering wheel switches, clock spring & electrical connections at the unit...i found problems with connections that affected both engage & disengage functions.
to rectify the problem i cleaned the electrical connections & replaced the brake light switch located on the brake pedal assembly Tridon part # TBS060 $15 from Bursons and the disengage switch located on the brake master cylinder Ford part # EF9F924A from Ford $37......the cruise control now functions correctly.

RUST IN FRONT GUARDS BEHIND FRONT MUDFLAPS, after disassembling the front inner guard plastics to replace an electric aerial i found large deposits of soil & debris that accumulated over the years. the problem i found is the felt lining that shields the inner guard and door crevice was holding water. debris would enter via the grille under the windscreen wiper arms & not be able to exit because the felt retained the moisture & debris causing rust in the guards & the sill. upon closer inspection (after cleaning it all out) i found the sill wasn't caulked properly & the felt to be too long, so i decided to cut 30mm off the bottom of the felt liner, to let water & grit out & treated the rust with rust converter, then caulked the joints, sealed it with body deadener & reassembled everything....the felt still retains water but is able to drip dry instead of constantly absorbing water & the 30mm gap i created now allows leaves & dirt to pass through the gap.....
it now stays clean & doesn’t rust.

HEADLIGHTS, tend to fade due to weather & UV exposure causing discolouration, this can be removed with a fine cutting compound...you can cut & polish the headlight lenses the same way you polish your paint work to restore them...
Permatex make a headlight restoration kit that works for around $30 permatex part # 09135
i've also encountered broken headlight globe clips & burned wiring behind the globe access covers on several vehicles,
causing short circuits & inoperative headlights.
NOTE: upgrading headlight globes, "NARVA BLUE POWER" are a massive improvement over standard globes
Falcon H1 narva part # 48530BL2 LO BEAM 55W
Falcon H3 narva part # 48531BL2 HI BEAM 55W
Fairmont H4 narva part # 48532BL2 HI/LO BEAM 60/55W
Fairmont H3 narva part # 48531BL2 HI BEAM 55W

ELECTRIC AERIAL, mast should be lubricated periodically, CRC, RP7, WD40 all work fine
if yours is seized, bent or broken a replacement mast is available for around $35 from most automotive stores.
it's simple to replace & if possible lube the nylon cable with lithium grease when you replace it.

DRIVELINE VIBRATIONS, check the following, tyres, damaged rims, engine & transmission mounts, loose torque converter,
loose flywheel, harmonic balancer, bent or dented tail shaft, weights missing from the tailshaft, universal joints, worn wheel bearings, worn stator bush in transmission extension housing, bent axle or damaged diff centre, missfiring engine, worn trailing arm bushes....if your tailshaft has a vibration dampener on the front yoke, check the rubber bonding the weight to the shaft, if the rubber is deteriorated or damaged you can remove the dampener with a press or angle grinder.
wheel nut torque specs: 110Nm or 82 ftlbs
Neway Wheel Repairs in Heidelberg repair alloy & steel rims (colin 03 9457 3141)

ELECTRIC WINDOWS, lube window mechanisms & cables with lithium grease, lube window rubbers with silicone spray.
i replaced my EF window rubbers with ED rubbers because they have a felt lining in the window track....the EF rubbers are all rubber....felt is smoother on glass than rubber, the windows glide smoother & quieter on felt.

KEYLESS REMOTE PROGRAMMING.
1 Get in your car and close the door,
2 Turn your ignition to accessories,
3 Press the rear demister button 3 times in 5 seconds....Your doors should then lock, this means your remote is ready to program.
4 Simply press unlock on your remote.
5 Turn off & remove key, then test to make sure it's ok

CLIMATE CONTROL: with the engine @ operating temp turn key to accessories & press mode & off simultaneously
the climate control will do a self test illuminating all of the LCD & perform a reset...if no errors are stored the unit will turn off.
you may need to do the self test twice to ensure it resets properly.
NOTE: if the heater tap has constant vacuum applied to the diaphragm the heater will not work.(closed position)
default is open with no vacuum applied, closed is with vacuum applied
i found a problem with a climate control that would not allow the heater tap to open in any mode.
no error was stored in the climate control unit & the blend motor appeared to work correctly.
selecting airflow from face to feet to windscreen worked fine... AC OK ...but no heater.
the ECU had a stored code 523 (no air blower fan signal or blown fuse) fuses checked OK
i was advised the entire dash will need to be removed to remedy the problem....$$$ka ching$$$
i believed the vent solenoid valves behind the radio to be problematic (stuck on allowing constant vacuum)
i decided with nothing to lose except a few days to remove the dash & go fault finding i disconnected the vacuum hose from the heater tap & poked it up through to the top of the inlet manifold, poured several teaspoons of WD40 into a cup, and inserted the heater vacuum hose into the cup allowing it to suck in the WD40....it took about 5 seconds for the vacuum to stop.
the lubricant cleaned out the solenoid valves & i plugged the hose back onto the heater tap & heater operation was restored.
it worked for me...it might work for you too :o)....saved me removing the dash & keeping my wallet looking pregnant...haha

ENGINE OVERHAUL TIPS:
if you deck the block, bolt the timing cover to the block with the dowels inserted & machine them together at the same time
use a paper sump gasket rather than cork
use hylomar spray, lube & torque new head bolts in sequence to 40Nm, then retorque in sequence to 80Nm, then retorque in sequence to 110Nm

XR8 250
30-10-2009, 08:06 PM
Thanks Bushie, some good ideas here!

EBII_dean
01-11-2009, 04:44 PM
those LPG mods are a tip top idea!

Mark73
01-11-2009, 08:33 PM
Gee wiz Bushmechanic, that would have to be the longest post I've ever seen, but very informitive nonetheless. How are your fingers and keyboard? ;)

EF and EL models can be susceptible to niggling faults with the electrical systems, particularly on the mid and high series vehicles. I'm not exactly being biased here because I own an ED, but I have found from experience that the EF and EL tend to suffer more problems with various things than it's ED predecessor which is an older model.

Cheers

maverick
02-11-2009, 08:33 AM
hi there good info m8. does that thermostat # aply for ed 4lt as well

ELSpeedo
02-11-2009, 10:12 AM
thanks for the invaluable information. Never know when you may need it.

Like your joke on the headgasket goes and along with lots of other things as
well :eek:

Lumpy2
12-11-2009, 09:26 PM
Hi, Bushmechanic

A long running issue with 1997 NL Fairlane front steering vibration. the problem is cyclic at 60 - 80 - 100k, with increasing chatter in steering rack at each point as speed increases.

Work to date:

New LH/RH hubs-disk, bearings [2] twice machined.

New tyres, three different manufacturers, several balances, rotations and wheel allingments.

New Front Springs, Struts, Ball Joints, Tierod ends, Suspension rubber [set], new Engine mounts [both sides genuine Ford] and Gearbox Mounts.

A Recon Rack was fitted two years ago with a new power steering pump.

With the suspension now tight the noise is getting worse and you can feel a clunk in the rack with the engine at idle when rocking the steering from RH to LH.

On the road when driving over 'the lane warning bumps' with the RH wheel at about 10k the wheel causes a rattle-chatter in the rack similar to that felt at speed. However this is not so much evident with the LH wheel.

Would appreciate your advice.

With Thanks

KH

bushmechanic
13-11-2009, 09:56 AM
hi lumpy, i've had the same issue & fixed it.
the steering vibration is possibly caused by a bent/damaged rim.
alloy wheels are soft & easily damaged.
the best way to find out is strip the tyre off & put the bare rim on a balancing machine & observe the rim as it's turning,
or check the runout with a dial gauge....most tyre gurus will tell you if it's unserviceable.
another way to tell is to look for uneven wear marks or flat spots in the tyre tread......
i replaced the swaybar link bushes & "D" bushes with blue superoo units, secured the "K" frame & found
the intermediate output shaft from the end of the steering column to the rack was loose & worn.
if possible put the car on ramps, turn the engine off, use an assistant to move the steering wheel left to right while you physically hold the rack ends to hear & feel the knock, check for noise & movement....laying flat on your back under the car use the sway bar like a bench press, push & pull on it.
if it moves more than 0.5 mm, you need new links & bushes.
let me know how you go :o)

aussieef
17-11-2009, 02:53 PM
This was helpful in finding out what my idle problem was thanks bushmechanic :)

Turns out it was my injectors & ECU.

b2428
18-11-2009, 06:40 AM
Just a quick note along the lines of Lumpy2's vibration problem. How are the topmount bushes in the front struts. You know the ones at the top of the strut where it goes through the body work. We had a similar issue that spanned a similar range but also occured while slowing. We had the front discs machined twice then replaced, new ball joints, new tyres, and concluded in bearings. All along i suspected the top mounts but was advised several times that this although been cracked and tried up was not the cause.

Needless to say we got jack of this and ended up replacing the top mounts but in doing this we had to replace the front struts too. Vibration and chatter gone. Drives like an almost new one now. It seems that the struts we're getting a bit of movement that was causing the vibs and weird steering feel.

Along the lines of idle problems if anyone has it, the ef had massive fuel consumption in that it went from10-11 around town to 17-18 and was running like a dog, idling crap missing when taking off but running fine at higher rpm. Turned out to be the inlet gasket around 5/6 had blown. There has been mention from a couple others and myself on here. Pretty uncomfy job to do but cheap and fixes alot of the crappy idle syndrome these cars can have.

Hope this helps anyone

Brian

rocket11
23-11-2009, 08:27 AM
gidday.
How do you check the ECU for codes?

bushmechanic
23-11-2009, 12:16 PM
hi, i found this site to be more useful than the service manuals available.
codes & info scroll down to EEC-V Self Test Modes

http://www.fordmods.com/documents.php?d=52
ecu article
http://www.fordmods.com/ecu-fuel-system-eec-f21/fault-code-interpreter-program-now-available-t41564.html
download page
http://www.yourfilehost.com/media.php?cat=other&file=4732EFCodeInterpreter_V101.zip

let me know how you go :o)

JOSHIE90
24-11-2009, 08:31 PM
Hi good info posted.
Ive owned a ef falcon gli for around 6 months now, And I haven't had the best time with it but after around $2000 worth of repairs its finally going ok.
We all know the ef falcon has a twitchy rear end would anyone know how to fix this problem, I know it'll probably result in a new suspension set up in the rear has anyone over come this issue? or have any additional info?

Thanks

bushmechanic
24-11-2009, 09:48 PM
depends how you drive, performance, towing etc
how much $$ do you wanna spend?
i rebuilt the whole car.....below is what i did to the rear suspension.
i body deadened the wheel arches, replaced the upper & lower control arm bushes with nolathane, updated the springs with std height king springs, updated the shocks with heavy duty ultima shocks
replaced the sway bar links & bushes with superpro units,
replaced the wheel bearings & updated the brakes with hi performance
rotors, pads & brake fluid with 205/65/15 tyres on ghia rims.
its a daily driver for the misses & it sits firm on the road with hardly any road noise .... she loves it & i dont mind driving it either :o)

Lumpy2
27-11-2009, 10:43 PM
Hi, Bushmechanic,

An interesting day. I am not sure if we have hit on a solution but this post, see Ford Falcon BA 2005 in the post listed below is very interesting.

http://www.motorsm.com/complaints/2007-02.asp?page=25

Although not exactly my model, the situation seems very similar to what we experienced today. Took a drive into the country to look at a set of second hand mag wheels for the Fairlane. However, these rims did not fit [due to the large offset of the Fairlane rims] so we put the front driver’s side wheel back on. However, all we had was the jack and wheel brace that is supplied with the Ford, so this we used. The drive back was enlightening; very much reduced vibration in the range of 80 – 105km was experienced under all driving conditions.

As we drove home, a little stunned at the results, I recalled the warning page in the Genuine Ford Service Manual [Ipswich Library] that mentioned a maximum wheel nut tension, for the Fairlane, of 50 – 60f/lb. The Ford manual I downloaded [$15US] is an after market one [not genuine Ford] and a bit confusing listing 150NM [110F/Lb] and [105NM [70f/lb] on the same page for wheel nut tension.

When we arrive home at my friend’s place we checked the wheel nut tension on the rim we had refitted and found a tension range of 55 - 65f/lb across the wheel nuts. The other three rims were checked and found to have a wide tension had range of 75 - 125f/lb, varying across each wheel. There were even different tensions on adjacent wheel nuts on the same rim?

As mentioned above we used the supplied Ford wheel nut wrench to replace the front wheel. If we look at the situation from an engineering point of view taking into account the length of the brace supplied by Ford, I think at least it would have been designed for the average person to exert between 50 and 60f/lb if replacing a wheel on the roadside.

So, we reset all the wheel nuts on the Fairlane to 55-60f/lb and went for a run. There was no discernable shudder or vibration at speeds of 80 - 120km/hr [momentarily], at least that we could determine on such a short run. I will take a longer run tomorrow, approx. 200km, and, if you wish, let you know what happens.

Regards, KH

leftey
28-11-2009, 09:48 PM
Hi guys & gals, after doing an extensive expensive full rebuild on a 95 EF Fairmont (4.0L Engine auto) i found numerous mechanical & electrical problems that required attention & decided to document some basic info that may be beneficial to you.

SMART LOCK PROBLEM, ie:- car wont start ....remove body control module (BCM), located in front & just above of the drivers left knee when sitting in the driverís seat behind the dash facia...
remove unit, disassemble & resolder dry solder joints, reassemble, reinstall & test.

NO START, check interior light, fuses, relays, transmission inhibitor switch, battery terminals, fuel pump, coil pack etc,
if main fuses blow during cranking, check for seized aircon compressor.

ROUGH IDLE, replace both engine mounts & K frame brackets with square type EL series 2 mounts,
Kelpro part # (mount) MT8370, (bracket) MTB8370 available at Repco for around $200
original round hydraulic mounts collapse causing rough idle / vibration & are no longer commercially available
check ECU for codes, a faulty ecu may not idle properly
check spark plug gaps 1.0mm -1.1mm for petrol, & 0.9mm for LPG
check leads for damage or high resistance...anything over 7K OHMS is usually unserviceable
check or replace coolant sensor
check or replace coil pack
check & clean ISC with carby cleaner, remove & disassemble the black cap & clean the felt filters out.
clean throttle body with carby cleaner
check, clean or replace pcv valve
check or replace HEGO (oxy) sensor
clean or replace injectors, O rings, baskets & pintle caps
check or replace switch on steering rack
remove & clean mass air flow sensor (MAF) located in the inlet manifold under the throttle body with CRC mass air flow sensor cleaner
check for vacuum leaks...ie inlet manifold gasket, hoses, brake booster, tank behind drivers side front guard,
charcoal canister behind passenger front guard etc.

RUNS ROUGH, check the following...water in fuel, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relief valve, fuel pump gauze filter, harmonic balancer, injectors, coil pack, spark plugs, leads, head gasket, broken head bolt, broken rocker arm, leaking exhaust manifold, vacuum leak, seized aircon compressor, egr valve, pcv valve, cracked carbon canister, blocked fuel filter, blocked air filter, broken timing chain guide or tensioner, engine mounts, map sensor, blocked catalytic converter

LPG MODIFICATIONS, replace airbox clip springs with coil type springs,
replace thermostat with a hiflow unit Tridon part # TT2028-195,
replace ignition leads with inductive stainless steel bosch leads or equivalent,
replace spark plugs with NGK part # BPR6EY, 0.9mm gap
use a hacksaw & cut airbox snorkel at approx 30 degrees from tip to mount parallel to filter element.
replace air filter element with K&N part # 33-2015
secure the small black plastic F type vacuum connector located on the inlet manifold under the throttle body with a hose clamp so it can't blow off if it backfires.
replace the PCV valve with a steel unit
replace the rear coil springs & update the shocks with heavy duty units to accommodate the lpg tank.
LPG Vapour & Injection Specialist (Melbourne) 0414 - 250526 Graeme

FRONT END KNOCK, replace swaybar links & "D" bushes...physically measure swaybar diameter as they vary from 26-27mm
check struts, bushes, ball joints, steering rack including tie rod ends, loose K frame, engine mounts & radius rod bushes.
Super Pro blue urethane suspension components are good value.

COOLING SYSTEM, clean coolant reservoir with 1/2 cup of washing powder ,1/2 cup of sand & 1/2 litre of non alkaline degreaser...block all entry / exits with plastic bags & cable ties, add cleaning agents & shake vigorously for 15 minutes......
repeat if necessary....
replace radiator cap with 110kpa Tridon part # CA11610, replace thermostat with a hiflow unit Tridon part # TT2028-195,
replace coolant with GM coolant that meets or exceeds HN2043-AS2108:1:1997 & mix 50/50 with fresh water,
install an earth strap from radiator to radiator support panel, check heater tap for rust & replace if necessary.
check hoses & pump, check thermostat housing for leaks or corrosion, check cooling system for electrolysis.
if you have a coolant level sensor, check or replace the sensors rubber grommet in the reservoir housing.
fill the cooling system to the minimum line when cold to allow for expansion when hot.
pressure test if possible & check thermo fan operation by temporarily unplugging coolant sensor.
NOTE: vehicles fitted with LPG have a larger cooling system capacity due to converter & hoses and coolant should be mixed & added accordingly....i recommend NULON long life (green) coolant (1058 gm/p/l glycol).

DASH BOARD FUSE BOX COVER, gently heat & manipulate locking tabs with a hot air gun for desired fit.

SIDE MIRRORS, use fuller brand fulaprene (grey neoprene rubber compound) to secure broken or loose side mirror assemblies.
it's temperature tolerant to 80 degrees Celsius, UV stabilized, water resistant, sticks anything to anything...better than factory glue...& available from bunnings for $14 per tube....you need a caulking gun...saves buying new mirrors & stops the mirrors vibrating all the time.

BONNET & BOOT STRUTS, replace as necessary, if boot strut brackets have broken off, remove rear outer seat cushions & seat belts, drill holes through brackets & parcel shelf support to accommodate bolts to secure the brackets in their original position......Gas Strut Engineering Fawkner Victoria (03) 9357 - 2821

UNIVERSAL JOINTS, install unis & rebalance tail shaft....O.E.M tail shafts are NOT balanced accurately.
balancing services australia in coburg victoria fully reconditioned mine, new unis, balanced & painted for $145 same day.
B.S.A (03) 9480 - 4040 ask for Murray

BRAKES, check & machine brake rotors or replace as necessary, check slide sleeves on callipers to ensure they arenít seized,
replace brake fluid with "SUPER DOT 4" or "DOT 5.1" with a boiling point no less than 260 degrees Celsius.
clean ABS sensors & tone rings, rear handbrake shoes should measure 189.7mm from edge to edge.
hand brake lever should be adjusted for roadworthy requirement of 4 clicks
front rotor minimum thickness = 22mm, rear rotor minimum thickness = 8.5mm
ADB cross drilled & slotted rotors with Bendix CT pads all round & GS610 brake fluid are an ideal brake upgrade under $450
A.D.B sydney (02) 9518 -1088 ask for John

FRONT SEATS, weld broken seat bases or replace as necessary

REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHES, check for cracks or deformed bushes & replace as necessary.
also check & replace rear sway bar links & "D" bushes as necessary
steering & suspension components Gowanbrae Melbourne 0419 - 488687 ask for andrew

TPS SENSOR, linear measurement should vary between 0.3K - 4.0K OHMS between the centre & outer pins when turning in both directions....one measurement will increase as you turn it, the other should decrease as you turn it
... you can usually tell if it's not within spec by the way the transmission shifts...erratic

OXY SENSOR, (Hego) replace every 100,000km or whenever the head gasket blows as coolant destroys the sensors.
4 wire NGK or BORG WARNER are probably the best choice for the 4.0L engine
smear anti-seize on the thread before installation.
P.A.V in Coburg Victoria supply hego sensors at discount prices (03) 9354 - 2962 ask for Minas

POWER STEERING, if any component leaks, replace it....beware of power steering fluid leaking into the alternator,
as the fluid turns the carbon brushes in the alternator to paste, when this happens the alternator light stays on & it wont charge the battery.....fix power steering leak, replace alternator brushes to avoid being stranded....
after market hoses that don't leak are available from Prestige Power Steering in Melbourne (03) 9464 - 2282 ask for Luke
USE ONLY DEXRON 2 OR 3 FLUID IN THE POWER STEERING RESERVOIR

TRANSMISSION, replace oil & filter every 20,000km, adjust bands as necessary, replace rear bush & seal as necessary
replace inhibitor switch as necessary, install earth strap from trans housing to chassis cross member
USE ONLY CASTROL TQ95 or CALTEX LE95 in the transmission.
if the coolant boils on a regular basis, your transmission might require a service...the transmission cooling pipes share the same radiator as the cooling system.
if the throttle position sensor (TPS) fails, the transmission will shift erratically & may not shift to overdrive (torque converter will not lock)
if a solenoid or temp sensor fails the transmission won't function correctly & may result in the ecu switching to "limp mode"
ie: stays in 3rd gear.....you can purchase service kits from Burson Auto Parts for around $20
NOTE: there are two rear seals available, the easiest seal to fit with good results is part # P6231 non boot type
for around $5 from repco or bearing & seal retailers.

STRUTS & SHOCKS, if it feels like your driving a boat....replace them !
ULTIMA shocks are a massive improvement over factory munroe units for under $300 for front & rear
CV Joints Australia (sydney) carry an extensive range of ultima products at heavily discounted prices
(02) 9743 - 7788 ask for John

ALTERNATOR, check & replace regulator as necessary, check carbon brushes & slip ring for wear & change bearings.
alternator should charge between 14.25 volts to 14.55 volts @ 2000 rpm, if it's not, replace the regulator.
its a simple job, brushes are 23x8x5mm available on ebay for $13 slip rings are $18, bearings are available from cbc for around $40
all you need is degreaser, a vice, soldering iron, #2 Phillips screwdriver, socket set, multimeter & a paper clip.
A.E.S (QLD) carry most alternator parts 0416 - 733457 ask for Rick

AIR BAG ECU REPLACEMENT, hereís a tip, enlarge the hole in the dash moulding behind the fuse box cover & use 1/4 drive extensions to access the 3 airbag ecu bolts, remove the fuse box & use 1/4 drive sockets & a mirror & a torch to access the bolts you canít see.
installation is the same as the removal procedure, but use blu tac to hold the bolts in the socket instead of using a magnet.
...saves removing the dash.....remove the driverís seat so you can lay down on the job.

CRUISE CONTROL, if the cruise unit wont engage, check the steering wheel switches, clock spring & electrical connections at the unit...i found problems with connections that affected both engage & disengage functions.
to rectify the problem i cleaned the electrical connections & replaced the brake light switch located on the brake pedal assembly Tridon part # TBS060 $15 from Bursons and the disengage switch located on the brake master cylinder Ford part # EF9F924A from Ford $37......the cruise control now functions correctly.

RUST IN FRONT GUARDS BEHIND FRONT MUDFLAPS, after disassembling the front inner guard plastics to replace an electric aerial i found large deposits of soil & debris that accumulated over the years. the problem i found is the felt lining that shields the inner guard and door crevice was holding water. debris would enter via the grille under the windscreen wiper arms & not be able to exit because the felt retained the moisture & debris causing rust in the guards & the sill. upon closer inspection (after cleaning it all out) i found the sill wasn't caulked properly & the felt to be too long, so i decided to cut 30mm off the bottom of the felt liner, to let water & grit out & treated the rust with rust converter, then caulked the joints, sealed it with body deadener & reassembled everything....the felt still retains water but is able to drip dry instead of
constantly absorbing water & the 30mm gap i created now allows leaves & dirt to pass through the gap.....it now stays clean & doesnít rust.

HEADLIGHTS, tend to fade due to weather & UV exposure causing discolouration, this can be removed with a fine cutting compound...you can cut & polish the headlight lenses the same way you polish your paint work to restore them.
i've also encountered broken headlight globe clips & burned wiring behind the globe access covers on several vehicles,
causing short circuits & inoperative headlights.
NOTE: upgrading headlight globes, "NARVA BLUE POWER" are a massive improvement over standard globes
Falcon H1 narva part # 48530BL2 LO BEAM 55W
Falcon H3 narva part # 48531BL2 HI BEAM 55W
Fairmont H4 narva part # 48532BL2 HI/LO BEAM 60/55W
Fairmont H3 narva part # 48531BL2 HI BEAM 55W

ELECTRIC AERIAL, mast should be lubricated periodically, CRC, RP7, WD40 all work fine
if yours is seized, bent or broken a replacement mast is available for around $35 from most automotive stores.
it's simple to replace & if possible lube the nylon cable with lithium grease when you replace it.

DRIVELINE VIBRATIONS, check the following, tyres, damaged rims, engine & transmission mounts, loose torque converter,
loose flywheel, harmonic balancer, bent or damaged tail shaft, weights missing from the tailshaft, universal joints, worn wheel bearings, worn stator bush in transmission extension housing, bent axle or damaged diff centre, miss firing engine, worn trailing arm bushes....if your tailshaft has a vibration dampener on the front yoke, check the rubber bolding the
weight to the shaft, if the rubber is deteriorated or damaged you can remove the dampener with a press or angle grinder.

ELECTRIC WINDOWS, lube window mechanisms & cables with lithium grease, lube window rubbers with silicone spray.
i replaced my EF window rubbers with ED rubbers because they have a felt lining in the window track....the EF rubbers are all rubber....felt is smoother on glass than rubber, the windows glide smoother & quieter on felt.

Great advice, very interesting .

On my EB 3.9mpfi. I have a problem on starting , you have to give it a bit of accelerator immediatley it fires , hot or cold as it seems always to start & run on a very low idle, apart from this it runs fine, any one got any ideas

bushmechanic
29-11-2009, 10:07 AM
try replacing the idle speed controller unit, while you're under the bonnet, clean out the throttle body & the pcv valve.
with the engine @ operating temp, switch it off, unplug the new ISC.
start it again & set the base idle anywhere between 450-600 rpm.
turn it off, plug the ISC cable back in.
it should idle around 700 rpm in park.
let me know how you go :o)

jakesfalcon
29-11-2009, 11:01 PM
thanks for the info i was help full, i got an 98 el falcon and it doesnt have power under load and when i accelerate it, it wont go, it like it misses. i reaplaced everything that i could think of and i got the injectors cleaned too but it's still same, any idea? i'm really stucked at this point. could it be an air leack? (this thing doesnt happen when it runs on lpg gas)

thanks guys :)

bushmechanic
30-11-2009, 01:04 PM
have you changed the fuel filter?
is the engine management light on?
could be a fuel delivery problem (petrol)
or it's in limp mode...
does it idle ok on petrol?
if you rev the engine in park, do the revs increase & decrease smooth or does it cough & splutter?

Lumpy2
03-12-2009, 08:53 AM
Hi All.

Feeling seriously depressed.

Went down to DePulu, Gold Coast, on Wednesday and they looked at the rims without taking them off the vehicle and pronounced them as OK.

It seems that the vibrations now different to that experianced before the wheel nuts were tensioned to 60f/lb each [after Gatton] is not as noticeable but still there.

This could be caused by the steering rack Wedmaiers fitted two weeks ago working loose when we drove up to Rainbow Beach and might need to be adjusted. I will be attending Wedmaiers RACQ garage today to have this looked at as well as the replacement of the high pressure power steering pump hose which was not done before our trip to Rainbow Beach.

It seems absurd that a problem like this could come down to factory spec wheel nut tension and garrages using crude air guns to tighten wheel retaining nuts. As the DePulu people said it is not the wheel nuts that locates a rim on a hub but the taper of the hub mating with the taper on the rim. With different wheel nut tension across the face of each wheel nut on the Fairlane, as measure upon our return to Ipswich from the trip to Gatton, it is possible to pull one side of the rim on the taper/cone mating surface and distort the allignment of the wheel on the hub.

I will talk to Wedmaiers about this and if this is the issue then I would ask RACQ to investigate and place an article in the Road Ahead [a magazine that is supposed to be about motoring but now appears to be about everything else] and advise other road uses of this issue in particular the case of the 1996 - 1998 Ford Fairlane.

Lumpy2
03-12-2009, 09:34 AM
Hi All,

Read this and weep.

Did a Google search for "wheel nut tension", Australian only, and came up with this.

http://www.minerals.org.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0004/21694/safetyalert18.pdf

Although not my vehicle have a read and a look at points 4 and 5 on page 3, quoted here.
4. Do always use a torque wrench to set the final torque.

5. Do not use air tools to reliably torque wheel nuts to the specified tension.

Will send a copy of this to each garage that has worked on the vehicle since Biloela in 2007. They ALL used air guns to secure the wheel nuts and NO ONE and I mean NO ONE EVER used a torque wrench on the wheel nuts on our 1997 Ford Fairlane except to dopes who did so one afternoon in Darra.

Regards to all.

Keith Harris

PLEASE make sure that ALL of you go out and get a torque wrench and or stipulate that your 'garage' use one on your car, preferably with you watching!

Lumpy2
03-12-2009, 03:22 PM
Dear Moderator,

Thanks for your comment. Over the past three years I though that I was going mad. Sometimes the Fairlaine would vibrate and at other times not. Since my last post we have marked one wheel nut recess on each rim position as A-B-C-D, clockwise from the driver's side front RH wheel, and placed a mark on each wheel stud next to that. Then we moved the wheels at random either clockwise or anticlockwise one or two locating studs leaving the wheel on the same hub. The wheels were then re-tensioned to 60ft/lb and the car taken for a run. The result was astounding. No front steering vibration was felt as previously experienced following the many wheel rotations, balances and alignments carried out on the car as reported above.

I do not know how to get this message out but I am sure that there might be many other drivers on our roads experiencing the same frustrating issue. If you could find away of making a general comment on this issue on your web site, like 10 top tips etc, I think that many would benefit.

Regards,

KH

DStirrup
20-01-2010, 08:43 AM
This should be a sticky

justguitar
27-01-2010, 03:52 PM
How do I remove BCU from behind the dash? From Falcon EB 11?

nick2k
01-02-2010, 11:06 PM
Hello All

Could not find where to start that's why posting in this section if i am wrong kindly advice, Well I have a Ford falcon EL 1996 have it for last three months
and still fixing it 17723 In here i am posting these photographs the loose bolt in picture is where it leaks oil from sometime it splashes and other times no leak another picture 17724
just to give a clear view well i took the bolt out cleaned it put some loctite 641
back togather 50km no leaks another trip leaks again this bolt is the upper one
top on the tensioner I have no idea if this bolt ends up somewhere in oil gallery or the "O" ring on chain tensioner to engine face is leaking oil through this bolt
any help would be greatly appreciated a million thanks in advance :)

Thanks for your valuable time and reading :outtahere:

bushmechanic
02-02-2010, 09:54 AM
hi nick, check the timing chain tensioner seal.
it's located behind the power steering pump bracket & screws into the timing chain cover.
theres 3 areas it can leak
1\ rocker cover gasket (rubber)
2\ timing chain tensioner seal (rubber)
3\ timing chain cover gaskets (paper & rubber)


1\ is an easy fix & takes about 30 mins
2\ remove the power steering pump & brackets, unscrew the tensioner, clean it & silicone it, requires resetting the tensioner with a 3 mm allen key.
3\ is more difficult because you also need to remove & replace the sump gasket,
engine removal is the easiest way.

i had the same problem with several EF's, i purchased full reseal kits $105ea & head bolts for $20, removed the engine, stripped it down, decked the head, resealed it, reinstalled the motor changed the oil & coolant & put it back on the road in 3 days for under $250.
no more oil leaks.

nick2k
02-02-2010, 09:43 PM
Hello Mate

Thanks for quick reply I work full time therefore will not be able to
pull it apart can you suggest where i can get it fixed i Live in Mitcham
Really Appreciate your advice

Thanks again

bushmechanic
03-02-2010, 07:09 AM
hi nick, any reputable mechanic will fix it & charge you a million bucks.
heres an approximate breakdown of parts
full reseal kit inc valve stem seals $105
head bolts $20
head machining $60
oil, oil filter & coolant $70
degreaser & sealants $35
timing kit if required $90
power steering fluid $10
1 can of carby cleaner $15
6 injector kits $20
totals $425
the rest is labour....approx 24 hours to remove, strip, clean, reseal & reinstall taking your time doing the job properly & cleaning up the mess.
how long can you go without the car & how much do you wanna spend?

falconxh
17-02-2010, 04:17 AM
Most sincere thanks to you, bushmechanic, for your very kind assistance.
:burnout:

nick2k
17-02-2010, 06:35 AM
A million Thanks
Bushmechanic

I really Really appreciate your advice one quick question
for the breakdown of parts cost where i can get these
parts for that price asking because i rang Repco the said
alone complete reseal kit would be $120
and timing chain kit looking at $125
Head Bolts $60 so if you would be able to advice where i could get them cheaper i would try it to fix my self
Hope to listen from you soon thanks again

Nick:)

bushmechanic
17-02-2010, 09:36 AM
hi nick, call jeff at williamstown engine reconditioning (03) 9397-2694
they do fantastic work & your wallet wont turn anorexic!
it pays to shop around :o)

nick2k
17-02-2010, 10:53 PM
Thanks Mate

I will ring Jeff and let you know how much i am looking at,

Thanks again

Nick :)

aussieef
28-03-2010, 05:18 PM
ELECTRIC AERIAL, mast should be lubricated periodically, CRC, RP7, WD40 all work fine
if yours is seized, bent or broken a replacement mast is available for around $35 from most automotive stores.
it's simple to replace & if possible lube the nylon cable with lithium grease when you replace it.

How do you remove it in the first place I am having no luck on this I have even open a thread in the audio section.

aussieef
28-03-2010, 05:18 PM
ELECTRIC AERIAL, mast should be lubricated periodically, CRC, RP7, WD40 all work fine
if yours is seized, bent or broken a replacement mast is available for around $35 from most automotive stores.
it's simple to replace & if possible lube the nylon cable with lithium grease when you replace it.

How do you remove it in the first place I am having no luck on this I have even open a thread in the audio section.

PS. Sorry for this double post the forum went funny for some reason it is a little slow today ?

bushmechanic
28-03-2010, 10:03 PM
hi aussie, you need to remove the passenger side kick panel & unplug the aerial power cable & radio coax located just above the main ECU,
then, turn the steering wheel to the far left & remove the mudflap & inner wheel plastics, the aerial is mounted to a bracket inside the wheel arch via a 10mm bolt, NOTE: the bolt is almost vertical so you might need to use a torch & get down on your hands & knees to see it.
use a ratchet & 250+mm extension bar to remove the bolt & carefully pull the wiring grommet & wiring thru the body.
to remove the mast, remove the nut at the top of the aerial body & the stem should pull out...if the nylon cord is broken you'll need to disassemble the unit to remove the remnance of the nylon cord.
replacing a new mast requires powering the unit up...i use a 12v power supply on a bench & reverse the polarity to test up & down....when you have the stem inserted, tighten the top nut & test
when reassembling the unit make sure the bracket is mounted in the original position so mark it before removal.
installation is the reverse procedure but make sure the aerial tip is aligned with the plastic grommet in the top edge of the passenger front guard so it doesnt jam & use crc/wd40 or soap on the grommet when you reinstall it.
let me know how you go :o)

OTD08
02-04-2010, 09:09 AM
hey bushy going crazy with the missus ef got a couple of problems
1 the gearbox will drive better with the power button on then with it on economy it wont change into drive until 70 with the economy button on but with power on it changes into drive at 60 i have another 4speed out of a eb that ive got and it drove fine but dont want to change it if i dont have to
2 sometimes when you accerate quickly the engine will develop a miss its not all the time but on the highway at 100 or over it will do it almost all the time
3 airbag light has just come on ive replaced the sensor at the front under the black plastic with one from the wreckers but its still on
parts i have replaced new
plugs,leads,aircleaner,fuel filter,
parts replaced with secondhand
airspeed,mapsensor,throttle body,fuel pressure reg,fuel pump,tpi,02 sensor
ive replaced the injectors and fuel rail off another motor but didnt know the condition of them and the ef wouldnt run ive also pulled out the fuel tank and cleaned it just to be sure

bushmechanic
02-04-2010, 10:50 AM
hi omr, check the harmonic balancer & tps.
service the transmission.
does your trans have a dip stick?
to determine the air bag fault, count how many times the airbag light flashes
ie; flash pause flash flash = code 12
to avoid creating problems only use a new 02 sensor

Mini1
02-04-2010, 11:27 AM
I have always been led to understand that the power/economy system is purely electronic and controlled by the relevant computer, changing the shift pattern but not the actual method of changing gear. If this is correct, physical problems within the box (if any) will be the same regardless of the range (power or economy) selected. With all the other electronic faults, you may be better off changing the ECU as this may be the cause of all your problems. Depending on the age, EB and some early EB2 models have a separate gearbox computer which I believe is probably not compatible with EF models.

OTD08
03-04-2010, 08:19 AM
hi omr, check the harmonic balancer & tps.
service the transmission.
does your trans have a dip stick?
to determine the air bag fault, count how many times the airbag light flashes
ie; flash pause flash flash = code 12
to avoid creating problems only use a new 02 sensoryes the airbag does pause flash a little bit before staying on
the transmission has a dipstick and had a service just after we got it as the ef come with a safety certificate and i took it back to the guy i got it off and told him the tranny wasnt shifting into drive until 70 (not sure if he got it serviced i didnt see a receipt)but will put my eb one in as the one in the ef has a torque convertor winding
how do you check the harmonic balancer and where is the tps
could it be the injectors ebay has reco ones for $87 or could it be the computer playing funny buggers

major987
05-05-2010, 09:41 PM
hey bushmechanic, your post is great, most things you have mentioned I have had problems with in my EL and EF.

I have a question if you don't mind, my EF front Power Windows are not working. They work sometimes but have now stopped, any ideas on how I should check to see whats wrong. Thanks for any ideas you may offer.

bushmechanic
06-05-2010, 04:19 PM
hi major, electric windows are great when they work :o)
luckily i've never had electrical problems, only mechanical.
if you experience the same problem as i did, the cables in the window winder mechanism are freyed or broken, or the electric motors are rusted & seized.
replacement is fairly simple, remove the door trim, unplug the harness, drill the factory rivets out, replace the mechanism with M6x15 bolts & locknuts, reassemble everything & test.
HINT: lube the new mechanisms with lithium grease from an aerosol can.
lube the window rubbers with silicone spray.
insert a screwdriver through the inner door skin & jam the window up while you replace the mechanism.
dont fully tighten the bolts on the window brackets until your satisfied the window is operating & sealing correctly....i had to tweak mine to ensure they didnt bind going up or down & making sure they sealed when fully up.
nothing more annoying than air whistling in at high speed.
let me know how you go :o)

ron123
29-06-2010, 03:35 PM
hi bushie my cmp input on ef is showing as failed. how do i check the sensor and or wiring. without a bank loan you are my last hope. ron123

Pinchy
27-10-2010, 07:58 AM
We have a '94" Ford Fairmont, i have tried everything i can think of to get the Oil Filter out with no luck! Any suggestions anyone??

bushmechanic
27-10-2010, 03:52 PM
did you try using an oil filter removal tool?
there are various tools available to do the job properly, but....
if you dont have access to the right tool you can punch a hole through it with a large screwdriver & use the screwdriver as a lever to rotate it counterclockwise.

fforacing
28-10-2010, 07:01 PM
For the love of god, will a mod make this a sticky?

8 ETA
14-11-2010, 09:45 AM
G/day Bushmechanic ! Hope you can give me some advice on fixing steering rack on my 97 EL GHIA ? Looks like I have stuffed the seals on either end of rack,fluid pouring out from both rod ends that locate onto tie rod ends !
I have another rack out of EL V8 (ex Pursuit Car ) but after removing my rack from my V8, and placing them sides by side ,mine Ex-Ghia has a shorter shaft where it bolts to steering column uni -joint ? and also has a small wiring harness comiing from just below the column knuckle . Looks like even though they are both EL V8's they are a not compatible ? I might have to look at a recon-seal kit for my rack as it seems the Ghia is different !!!!
Hope you can help with any Idea's to get the rack fixed or replaced ?

Cheers!
BONES .

bushmechanic
14-11-2010, 10:54 AM
hi bones, the racks fitted to ghia models are "speed sensitive",
meaning the power steering rack has more assistance at low speed & less assistance at high speed.
i'd recommend a fully reco rack.
second hand is ok for low budget or short term use but it's just a matter of time before the knocks & oil leaks start again.

8 ETA
14-11-2010, 12:40 PM
Thanks for that Bushmechanic! I didn't think it would be an easy fix ! My car is in pretty good nik 1 so i'll probably get the rack recond properly and i'll put back in car when the bruises and missing skin grows back on my my Knuckles !
HAHA !!
Thanks again
BONES:smashcomp

joe123
17-04-2012, 02:48 AM
Sorry to open this thread up again but I got a few problems,
96 el futura with au xr6
I pulled out my old head unit (cd deck), was an ancient pioneer one so it needed replacing, the idiot before me cut all the wires out of the plug and just twisted and taped them together so its a huge mess, Meanwhile it got dark and I was messing with my interior light as it was cutting out while i was changing over my head unit. Then I tried to start my car without a unit in and it won't go. As well my electric windows won't work. Its got fuel, spark, and will turn over, and with a Bit of start ya bastard it wants to go but just doesn't. I changed the fuel filter but nothing! Im Honestly fazed about it, any one got any ideas????

bushmechanic
18-04-2012, 07:26 AM
Hi Joe, firstly check the fuses, if your interior light fuse blows your car wont start (smartlock) 10amp red
define huge mess?.....
check your wiring....do you have a schematic diagram?....do you have a multimeter?

joe123
19-04-2012, 11:45 AM
Thanks bush mechanic, another learning curve for me!
I never thought about interior light fuse having something to do with starting!
It was about another day From just towing it to a dealer and paying millions to get it fixed!
And my stereo deck, it looks like a mess of wires cause the clips have been cut off and different colours taped together for the old one. I can't find a schematic for it with clear instructions, would you have a site or one you could email to me as I'm not very electrical!
Thanks alot, your a life saver!
Joe

GarethNZ
22-04-2012, 07:20 AM
Wrong post, sorry !!

GarethNZ
22-04-2012, 07:24 AM
Have been trying to download that efecu file from fileshare but none of my computers can get any more than 294 bytes. Has anyone got a full version of V1.01 that they can email me. If so pm me and I will give you my email addy. I am assuming this will work for V8's too?

Cheers
G

majid1350
24-04-2012, 04:49 PM
Dear Bush mechanic

I have Ford Fairmont 1995 EF
there is 2 probs
1- my car cant works in idle , I found there is no voltage on Air control valve. Do you know where the wires come to Air control valve ? I mean, which part send voltage to Air control ?

2- When raining, the trunk door fills with water !! when I open the trunk , water comes from trunk door luck !! that's very strange !!! Is this a common prob ?

Thanks

toucanz
29-01-2013, 08:25 PM
hi bushie,

i have an xh ute poor pack.

sometimes it wont start and sometimes it does.
i have replaced dizzy,coil,leads plugs with new ones but the prob is still there.
it cranks but doesnt fire up
could the smartlock thingy be malfunctioning?
it seems to stay flashing even when im driving.
any ideas would be appreciated.

bushmechanic
01-02-2013, 07:05 PM
hi toucanz,
1/ if you hit the dash on the left side of the steering column while cranking does it start?
2/ is it worse on hot days?

if thumping the dash gets it started it'll be the bcm for sure.....needs resoldering internally.

let me know how you go....bushmechanic :o)

toucanz
03-02-2013, 11:59 AM
hi toucanz,
1/ if you hit the dash on the left side of the steering column while cranking does it start?
2/ is it worse on hot days?

if thumping the dash gets it started it'll be the bcm for sure.....needs resoldering internally.

let me know how you go....bushmechanic :o)

hi bushie,

am just leaving the key on until it overides the smartlock so i can drive to an auto lecky.
found a guy at yass that has diagnostic equipment so hope it doesnt cost too much


thanks
toucanz

Bigwave
24-02-2013, 08:39 PM
Hi, 95 EF GLI. The duct for outside or retic air is stuck on outside. All other functions work but this one. I can hear the mechanism trying to do its thing when i change from out to in but it stays on out. So Im thinking it may be just as simple as something come off the lever that does it. Is it an easy fix to get at it or a major drama?
Cheers.

nick2my
11-05-2013, 07:13 PM
hiya bushie. just a quick note to say thanks mate. just got an el falcon off a guy for a box of piss. it had a stuffed auto. been reading your faults and fixes, saw the section on transmissions and tps problem, googled that and found reset tps, followed the sequence and voi-bloody-la!! shes fixed!!! had been quoted 1200 bux plus for an exchange and fit but all it took was 4 minutes and a test drive! bit of a backyarder myself but oldschool. too many sensors and bells and whistles these days for an old codger like me to keep up with! so thanks again bud, much appreciated. maybe I owe YOU a slab huh?

bushmechanic
14-05-2013, 05:49 PM
hi nick, glad i could help :o)
it gives me great pleasure saving people bucket loads of cash & it gives the average diy'er great pleasure fixing their own cars.
good score on the EL for a box of grog.....you did well.
keep up the good work

jajemi
19-05-2013, 07:58 AM
Firstly just wanted to say a BIG THANK YOU to bushmechanic for all the useful information provided. I'm going to try the wd40 into heater vacuum hose trick suggested as I'm now at my wits end trying to fix my 98 DL LTD climate control heating problem. I've checked everything suggested on the forums even pulled the dash to look into the heater to determine if the blend door was working (it is) still no heat. Admittedly there has been times when I wanted to believe I could feel some warmth but never any convincing heat when set at the higher temps. Climate control works perfectly in summer. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated

jajemi
24-05-2013, 09:13 AM
Hi Guys, tried the WD40 siphoning trick but no luck, in fact the opposite?? seems the cabin is now colder than before???? looks like a dash out situation???

falconmax
26-08-2013, 03:02 PM
Hi Bushmechanic. Thank you for all your tips. They are great.
My 1998 Falcon EL has a strange starting probleming. If you put the key in and turn it to crank straight away it will start and turn off. If then you crank it again it will stay on no problem. Also I found that if you put the key in, turn it to just before cranking and wait say 10 seconds and crank it, it will start first time and stay on no problem. It only does this when cold.
Any ideas?
Thank you
Falconmax

bushmechanic
26-08-2013, 07:05 PM
hi falconmax, thats a tough one to diagnose online.....firstly, disconnect the battery then reseat all the fuses in the fuse box under the dash, some suffer from electrolysis & corrosion creating smart lock problems, you can tell when the interior light is dull or works intermittently, spray the ignition barrel with some spray lubricant.
i would check the ignition switch & clean the plugs in the loom for the ignition circuit....the plugs are located under the shroud around the steering column adjustment lever.
check the bcm plugs, resolder any dry solder joints inside the bcm, remove the plug from the ecu , clean it & reseat it & clean the crank angle sensor.
the crank angle sensor is magnetic & any foreign metal particles can cause a faulty signal.
check & clean the battery terminals & the fusible links & plugs on the ground side of the battery in case its a low voltage problem....the voltage will increase with the engine running & mask the problem.
check the wiring & remove & clean the plugs on the transmission inhibitor switch, they get full of dirt & moisture & can also create major problems.

when you turn the key the ignition switch sends a coded signal to the bcm which sends a signal to the ecu,
if any logic input or output is interrupted or incomplete the smartlock will disable the ecu until it receives the correct signal, hence restarting or waiting 10 seconds.
like i said, hard to diagnose without getting your hands dirty.
is your key worn & sloppy in the ignition barrel? if it is it might pay you get get a fresh key cut
an ageing capacitor or resistor in the bcm or ecu will cause the same symptom.....but start with gently removing plugs & sockets & inspect & clean them thoroughly.
reconnect the battery & test......let me know how you go :o)

falconmax
14-10-2013, 03:22 PM
Thank you Bushmechanic.

I tried everything you mentioned in the past few weeks and nothing worked. Then I went for a long holiday road trip out west. We did over 4000 Km in two weeks. Long straight roads sometimes with no other cars around for Kms, so speed was often 150-160Km/h for long stretches. And magically it stopped doing it. Now it is perfect!!! Starts first time and stays on. Who kows? I hope it stays this way.

Fuel consumption is always shocking though. Cannot do better than 7km/l on average, including all the highway, even when speeds were 110km/h. But I suppose that is normal for a falcon (on LPG).

Thank you again...till next problem...cheers
Falconmax

cazza4470
20-04-2014, 12:53 PM
Hi Bushie, thanks for all the info you give to us learners out here. My Hubby thought the ignition on our 1997 Ford Fairlane Ghia E L was getting a bit stiff and catchy so he sprayed the ignition barrel with some spray lubricant (WD40 graphite) in the keyhole using the little thin nozzle on the tin.

Well the nozzle got stuck in the hole so he had to use pliers to get enough grip to pull the nozzle out of the keyhole. Guess what? the little nozzle lost a little piece in the hole and the keyhole now wont let a key in the hole more than a tad, so we now can't use car.

what can we do?

does this mean a new ignition etc?

Cazza

Jim Tudge
26-04-2014, 04:51 PM
Suck it out with a vacuum cleaner maybe?

cazza4470
28-04-2014, 07:26 AM
thanks Jim, that is a good thought but as I talked with RACQ and others I found that the switch has shutters in it which clamps down on what ever is incoming. The End result was that the cheapest outcome was get a locksmith, who came with 2 picks and mini tweezers. the picks to hold both shutters whilst the tweezers pulled out the offender. He took 20 mins and did the job. Wow the mechanic told us it would involve a new ignition switch etc., when the locksmith only cost $100.

thanks to you for considering our drama.

d craine
16-06-2014, 04:56 PM
Hi Bushmechanic, this is a great thread and I have just joined the Ford Forum . I would be most grateful if you could offer me some advise . I have an ef ford with a thermo fan problem I am finding difficult to resolve. The fans will not operate when the engine gets hot. I have checked the fuses, changed the coolant sensor and run a code scan with a 118 result . The fans will operate when I run them in the diagnostics self test mode. They will also operate if I disconnect the wire from the engine coolant temp switch. The engine will only overheat if I'm stuck in traffic . If I am not in traffic eg on a freeway, I can drive for miles and the gauge stays on the L in normal . I realise the trigger signals come from the ecu unit near the passenger foot well. I'm tempted to change the ecu unit. What I cant find in the wiring Manuals or forums to check, is the ecu computer solely responsible for accepting the coolant sensor signal, processing it , and sending information to the thermo fans as well as temp gauge on the dash ? I am tending to believe that the Body Control Module is not part of this circuit. If the ecu is at fault do I have to replace it with one that has the exact same catch code 4DBG or would a 4DBC for example, with the first 3 matching letters do the same trick . Thank you .

lee511962
24-06-2014, 07:54 PM
hi bushie lee here i have a problem with my 95 ltd the wiper delay is not working but the wipers work fine also the washer motor is not working either and no interior lights or dimmer thanks in advance for your input