View Full Version : Ask Moonshinerunner - Mechanic

Paul Stewart
19-10-2002, 03:16 AM
Do you have any problems with your car?
Ask our local Mechanic, Moonshinerunner.

31-10-2002, 04:10 PM
Howes it going? I have a ED falon 1994. As soon as I bought it, it started to leak water I took it to the mechanic and found out it was the radiotor, got that fixed. The next day I thought the problem was all over when to my horror I noticed water coming out from another place in the car. It was coming from the engine(i think). My car has done 182,000 and I know that at 180,000 that is when the head gaskets meant to go. Is it the head Gasket? what else can it be???? PLZ HELP

01-11-2002, 01:27 AM
Chill out dude a head gasket is no biggie

Its a bit hard from the discription to confirm where it is commin from. Take the car to a radiator specialist and get them to preasure test the system, this will identify the prob and then get back to me and we will walk the fix

08-11-2002, 06:35 AM
hey i seem 2 be having problems with my eb fairmont ghia it doesnt seem 2 have much power behind it i have a 2 1/2 sports exhaust and a k&N pod filter and it is running like @#%$ wat do u think it could be it i put my foot down and it speeds up but it has no kick back and it doesnt fell like my foot is down. also do u know if these cars have irs cause it carnt rip stand stills?

08-11-2002, 01:19 PM
Hi, I have a 88 EA Spack, which has done 260000,in the last few days i have been losing around 2 litres of water per 80 kms and took it to the mechanics whom informs me i may have a cracked head but cant be 100% sure.They did a pressure test but couldnt find where the water was leaking from.Today i lost over 2litres in just over 40 kms.Car seems to be running its usually self for its age and miles.
I have been told if its a cracked head they usually run rough. Im lost to know if its a cracked head or where the water is leaking from . Ive recently had the water pump replaced as well to fix a previous water problem.
What do you suggest

10-11-2002, 02:39 AM
Welcome to the Forum, niknac! :bnd

Sorry to hear about your engine problems but our 'Forum Mechanic', gunnnig, should be able to help with you problem.

11-11-2002, 05:59 AM
Your can doesnt ave IRS
It sound to me like the first thing u need 2 do is to get the Kickdown cable checked \ adjusted. EA\EBs have a common problem with the kickdown cable causing exactly this prob. Let me know if this isnt the prob and well go to the next step

Your problem needs to be isolated. They do not always run rough when they av done a hed gastket. Go to your local radiator specialist and get them to preasur test the cooling system, Tell me the results and well go from there. This test should be done 4 free

11-11-2002, 10:30 AM
Hi I did a compression test on my car and it came up from 1000 to 1100 on cylinders 1 to 5 and the 6th was at 850kps. I repeated the test 3 times and each time the readings were within 10kpa. I used a screw in type compression tester.
I have just completed a head instillation, An EF head on the EA block. While I had the head off I set 4 of the pstons to the same level and filled the bores up with kerosine. The 6th cylinder was the slowest to leakdown surprisingly. The cam is fine, the head gasket wasn't blown as I thought it might have been. The thing I noticed was that the bore on the 6th cylinder has a bit more of a lip than the other cylinders. The others I could just feel it when I ran my finger nail up the side, and the 6th would actually stop it. I estimate it to have been twice as thick compared to the rest. Is it possible that it is worn at the top of the bore?? What are your thoughts on the matter? I havent quite finished putting everything back on but ill be doing another compression test when its done. Thanks, Karl

12-11-2002, 04:41 AM
do you have instructions on how to remove the head from a ford ea88 and replace new gasket

15-11-2002, 11:13 PM
Yes Karl I have seen engines in corollas where only one cylinder was warn but this was in a recon motor and I assumed the boring tool was getting blunt as they went along. Why did you go for the XF head? was the EA one cracked?. What was the state of the valves on the orig head? I am lookin at other reasons why u might get a lower reading, valves etc. Did u do a wet and dry compression test. This is done by a std Dry test then putting a tea spoon of engine oil into the cylinder. If the wet one is higher than the dry then you have ring probs?
Let me know?

15-11-2002, 11:24 PM
If u can wait till friday evening I will post them 4 u

20-11-2002, 02:35 AM
hey gunning do u think the kick back cable wiould make it run rough and loose power? Also i have a annoying sound when i am going slow and turn it sounds like a rubbing noise but i checked the wheels and nuthing is rubbing????????????????????????

20-11-2002, 10:35 AM
are u gettin either water in your oil (will be goin white) or is it goin out the exhaust?

20-11-2002, 10:41 AM

The kickdown cable wont make it run rough, is it at idle or all the time?

20-11-2002, 10:44 AM
Paul, we need 2 break this into seperate streams its gettin very hard to keep track of differnt issues :)

23-11-2002, 04:16 AM
what happens is that when i put in reverse the idles drop and it stalls and it does somtimes when i am in drive i took it 2 the mechanic and the gave it a efi check and it didnt do it for a couple of weeks but it is starting to do it again.

23-11-2002, 05:39 AM
I am going to do something I normally would not without looking at the vehicle, but from here, assuming plugs, leads and all filters are new I would be replacin the Throttle Positioning Sensor. This little bugger is a wire wound rheostat and is used by the computer to set idle and to know your throttle position. I have seen it produce EXACTLY those symptoms.

Good luck

27-11-2002, 11:04 AM
Hi Gunning I'm wondering if you can help me. The part of the clutch cable that goes through the firewall where the adjuster nut is has torn the metal in the firewall where it slots in, have you heard of this happening before? I own a 1992 EB with approx 360,000km on the clock, I love the car to death and the only reason why I bought it eight years ago was because of the manual gearbox (bought it second hand)that and I love fords. Can you suggest a fix? I was going to go to a wreckers and get that part cut from the firewall and either weld in the new piece (dangerous without major removal of soundproofing, brake booster, carpet and a ****load of wiring) or tech screw it on. What are your thoughts?

1992 5spd EB Falcon

27-11-2002, 11:17 PM

Lets not get too excited about welding the firewall, all u need to do is cut a piece of 1.5 or 2mm thick plate to say a 4 inch square. Now drill a whole in the centre big enough for the cable to pass through. Now u have two options:
1. Disconnect the box end of the cable and pull it out then pop rivet the plate into place. Use alluminium rivets, say 6mm and use plenty, starting at the outside and working in. The other option is to put a slot from the edge to the hole, loosen the locknuts, position the plate and again pop rivet in place. Now adjust the cable up. To finish the job give it all a coat of matt black paint.

28-11-2002, 01:44 AM
Thanks for the advice, I'll mutilate it tonight when I get home and let you know how I get on.. Oh quick question should I rivet it on in the engine bay or from inside the car? The way the pulling forces are at work I figure it should be done in the engine bay..

1992 5spd EB Falcon.

Thanks for the advice :)

28-11-2002, 02:00 AM
Yes the engine bay side is right and also have the rivet heads on the engine bay side as well
Good luck

30-11-2002, 09:23 AM
i have a ed futura classic 1993 model and the aircon doesnt work (i just bought it)and i was wondering if there are any common problems with the aircon (climate control is also installed)


01-12-2002, 01:52 AM
I need a little more info but here are a few thoughts till i get it

Is the compressor clutch engaging when you select aircon, if the answer is no then you may need gas (or a new fuse?). There is a gas preasure switch that will prevent the compressor from engaging if gas preasure drops too low. This is to protect the pump as the gas carries the oil around with it and we all know what happens if we run low on oil. To tell if it is engaging, pop the bonnet, start the engine and get someone to select the aircon. You should hear an audible click and see the compressor clutch centre spin. The outside of the clutch always spins with the belt so make sure the centre spins.
I could go on with other possibilities but will wait 4 your reply
Good luck

01-12-2002, 01:58 AM
i get the car back on wednesday as its being road complianced (just bought it at a auction) i will give it a try and and tell u how it go's


04-12-2002, 04:18 AM
Well I got it fixed I used 4mm thick aluminium, I layered it, one small piece on top of a larger piece and drilled through on an angle to simulate the angle of the broken off piece, then I tech screwed it on, it was decidedly easier to get to with an extesion on a tech gun than a pop rivet gun, so now I have a nicely polished piece of aluminium attached to my firewall. Tine taken about an hour, and that included the polishing to a mirror finish. Looks better than a painted black part.... thanks for the advice Gunning it worked a treat :)

1992 5spd EB Falcon

04-12-2002, 07:15 AM
No worries shadow, happy to assist

05-12-2002, 02:29 PM
Yea it was the gas i needed a regasing thanks

07-12-2002, 04:27 AM
Graet, glad to assist

17-12-2002, 02:51 AM
Gunning, oh wise one

Ive had the problem with ED that wont start. I still have the problem.

Jiggling the hand brake does seem to help. Some times. Odd? I had a look at hand brake no obvious electrical connections apart from warning light.

I noticed a little grey plastic box, hidden behind facia, just above and to steering wheel side of handbrake handle. It looks like a relay (another relay!?) It was very warm to touch almost hot and giving it a tap when car wont start with key turned fully to start will start the car.

Hot electricals worry me. I associate heat with high resistance or bad connections and imminent failure.
I suspect I need to replace this thing.....but what the hell is it??? Can you tell me?

thanks again Leon

18-12-2002, 11:31 AM

Mate just a little more info, does this little box have a partnumber on it, is it connected to a proper loom or is it added afterwoods, I cannot see the one you refer to:duno

19-12-2002, 04:31 AM
Gunning Paul?

mine is the older umbrella pull out type hand brake. Where it pulls out thru lower face of dash there are two little screwws holding small panel of facia in place.

behind this small removable panel is my naughty little grey box.
Grey box looks original loom seems original.

grey box has following numbers on it

GV 23134-B1-X21

12V 60A

I am guesing 12V = 12volts 60 A = 60 amps big current hence heat???

the grey box seems to plug into a black base numbers
9441064 (here there is seam in plastic, numbers continue) 460

oh for the days when there were only 200 wires in a car

thanks again

23-12-2002, 03:12 AM
hey i need help on my eb ghia when ever i turn my steering wheel the car makes a rubbing noise but i dont know wat it could be and also somtimes when i go really slow the wheels make a clicking noise i dont know wat that was. can anyone help?its really annoying

27-12-2002, 12:18 PM
the rubbing noise is usually dirt or duct between the wheel and the plastic column covers. If you have access to a compressor just blow it out. The clicking noise in the wheel, is that front or rear wheels and does it stop if you touch the brakes softly?

27-12-2002, 04:38 PM
I have had the car off the road close to a year after having transmission leaks (sump gasket), a tired motor and dull duco. Resprayed her, found a motor 84,oooKms put it in, serviced the tranny with the service kit and now i have a diesel type rattling sound in the vacinity of my bellhousing(i think?). Rang the Ford technican who told me it's highly likely the torque converter bolts need tightening. Well i tightened the hell out of them but still getting the growling noise. Any ideas what the problem is? Transmission shifts and acts fine just has that noise when in drive reverse and sometimes on idle.....

29-12-2002, 10:21 AM
Wow no reply, doesn't anyone know what the deal is? Maybe i shouldn't have got a Ford after all.......

03-01-2003, 07:33 AM
Well thanks for all the help Kids, i've worked it out myself. Go the XR6 Turbo!!!!:clapy

03-01-2003, 10:05 PM
whats involved in fitting climate control into a ed futura and removing it from a NA fairlane. my ed now has aircon


04-01-2003, 05:36 AM
I think everyone here's a little shy to help, anyway i might be able to help. Fordmods.totalweb.net.au have just completed an article 22nd december for the EF/EL climate control modification and will be posting an update soon for the EA-D series. Really good info on all types of mods so check it out.....
Anyway concerning the Clim./Ctrl mod the article begins like this...

Quoted from the above website....
"The automatic climate control conversion is suitable for all EA, EB, ED, EF, EL Model Falcons, but unfortunately, is a difficult conversion to carry out.
The Whole Instrument Panel will need to be removed, in order to gain access to the Vehicles Airbox.
In order to remove the Instrument panel, the steering column will also need to be removed.
If that tidbit of information hasnt scared you off yet, then take a big sigh of relief !
The Vehicles Airbox does not need to be removed from the vehicle, nor does it have to be replaced with a Automatic Climate Control Airbox.
This means that you will not need to re-gas your Airconditioning, nor will you need to bleed your coolant from the Radiator, and Heater.
Finally, there are only 6 to 7 components that you will require for the conversion, these include,

1. The climate Control Module - (The Display, and buttons)

2. The Ambient Temperature Sensor - (Mounted around the front air intake)

3. The Sunload Dash/Front windscreen photo sensor

4. The Blend Door Motor (Used to control the Temperature Flap)

5. The Vacume control Solenoid - (Used to control the Air distribution Vacume)

6. The Fan Speed Controller - (Used instead of a resistor block)

7. The Cabin Temperature Sensor, or also called the Sniffer Motor. (Required for EA-ED Models)"


08-01-2003, 03:18 AM
hey gunning i am wanting to work my EB fairmont ghia it is only a 6 and i have got a 2 1/2 exhaust and a k&n pod filter. i am wanting to et up a cold air intake but i wondering what way to go about it i am thinking of maybe getting the XR bonet vents do u know what would be the best way. Also i am looking to put in a some extractors and a chip. what extractors should i get any ideas i am thinking about redback stanless stell ones for $600 also i want to put in a new cam and was wondering what type of cam i should get and how much it will cost me. ANY IDEAS?

08-01-2003, 03:18 AM
hey i am wanting to work my EB fairmont ghia it is only a 6 and i have got a 2 1/2 exhaust and a k&n pod filter. i am wanting to Set up a cold air intake but i wondering what way to go about it i am thinking of maybe getting the XR bonet vents do u know what would be the best way. Also i am looking to put in a some extractors and a chip. what extractors should i get any ideas i am thinking about redback stanless stell ones for $600 also i want to put in a new cam and was wondering what type of cam i should get and how much it will cost me. ANY IDEAS?

09-01-2003, 10:46 AM
Firstly gidday all and welcome to PeterN

I have just got back onto the web after a torrent work load kept me off since xmas

Peter, I would have agreed with the ford guy who suggested tryin the flywheel bolts, but not so eh, are you gunna tell us what it was so if we find it next time well know what was it:duno

EM03 I am sure that there is an exact thread to this one, including the cold air setup and the mods, or maybe its 2 threads. Use the search function and I am sure you will find it, else well have another go at it. Hope all had a great xmas and new year

10-01-2003, 01:24 AM
Hi gunning. I've got a ute and I'm going to get a new tray cover that has buttons around the top rather than the usual hooks and elastic loops. My problem is that the old cover has worn away the paint in some parts right back to the bare metal and i was just wondering how easy it is to buy touch up paint and do it yourself, ( I have no car painting experience..) or do you think it's worth paying a proffesional to do the job.
Could you also give me some idea as to what it might cost to get a proffesional to do it.
Thanks heaps.

11-01-2003, 05:20 PM
Hi gunning, Merry Christmas to you and happy new year :clp . The tranny problem fixed itself after a good 40km drive it must have not cleared the lower cover properly, fairly happy with this low kay motor too. One thing though, I haven't got an injector emulator so on LPG the injectors are still working, is an emulator all i need? Thanks!

11-01-2003, 05:21 PM
Hi gunning, Merry Christmas to you and happy new year :clp . The tranny problem fixed itself after a good 40km drive it must have not cleared the lower cover properly, fairly happy with this low kay motor too. One thing though, I haven't got an injector emulator so on LPG the injectors are still working, is an emulator all i need (its running str8 LPG)? Thanks!

16-01-2003, 12:51 AM
Hello PeterN

I am unable to advise on the LPG issue but I am sure someone else will

16-01-2003, 12:56 AM
Gidday xhute96

I guess it depends on the state of the ute. Its not that difficult to do a pretty good job, an on a so..so ute that would be fine. I noticed that you are in Canberra and I do no of a great spray guy in Fyshwick if you want a Vgood job? You get what you pay for I Guess :)

18-01-2003, 05:33 AM
who's the spray painter in Canberra you know?

23-01-2003, 12:44 AM
There is oil leaking from the bottom of my engine any idea what this could be????? I have an ED falcon thanx

23-01-2003, 01:03 AM

Mate, give the engine a degrease and then monitor it for the first sign of the leak. Try and see if it is comming from front or back and if it is from up the top of the engine or from down round the sump. The oil will quickly be blown all over the engine son you need to look each time you drive it till you find it

23-01-2003, 02:26 AM
Guys, Jamie is in my opinion, the BEST spray / panel man in the country

His place is called JD's Autos (I think) but his contact is
Jamie DeLuca
Ph 6239 3333

Tell him that I put you onto him through the forum and hell look after you.

20-02-2003, 02:13 AM

I'll take a punt that your still answering questions in here.

I have tracked down a oil/fluid leak in my ED 4.0l to the power steering pump. It seems to leak out where the shaft enters the pump body/reserviour.

Question is, is there anything replaceable in there such as a seal and if so how hard is it to get to and replace or is a whole new pump the recommended option. If replacement any ideas on cost?

Ta, Rob

20-02-2003, 12:38 PM

Yes there is a seal but I believe there is a special tool required for the job, I would recommend you get a recon pump with warantee.

27-02-2003, 07:28 AM
I have a problem with my idle.What happens is when I sit at the lights or idle for awhile suddenly the the car idle reall rough for a few secs then gos back to normal.I have an ef2 fairmont wagon could it be the isc solenoid which adjusts the idle I have cleaned it but its still the same

01-03-2003, 06:28 AM
My guess is the throttle positioning sensor. These are known to cause this problem in this model. Try cleaning it with metho for a short term fix but ultimately get a new one

06-03-2003, 10:31 AM
Hi Gunning and Moonshinerunner

I did a service on my ute (96 4L straight 6) the other day and when i was changing the spark plugs, i noticed that the thread on one of the plugs was oily whereas all the others were dry, so I looked into the spark plug hole and there was a little pool of oil sitting there, should I be concerned because I have no idea what it could be, the only thing that comes to mind is a crack somewhere. The ute still runs fine.


07-03-2003, 10:20 PM
I would not be too concerned

Just make sure the plugs are tight and cdegrease it and wait and see.

If the ute isnt missing my guess is it has just been spilt, maybe last oil change


07-03-2003, 11:26 PM
Hi gunning- sorry bout the extra listings for my problem in other sections- i added a couple of things and .....My prob is l have an 89 fairmont ghia ea which broke timing chain guide and the chain punched a hole in the timing cover.Have the old cover off and want to align the marks at tdc. My manual says align as per diag., but no diag for 6 cyl- 2 diags for v8 tho! At tdc crank n idler marks are facing each other, but what should camshaft gear mark line up with. It is at "3.00 o'clock" atm (level with top of head). Does this sound right, or has the chain slipped a few teeth when the guide and t/cover broke?
my email is tnc_chris@hotmail.com.
Thanks guys ning up markers on timing chain gears on ea 1989 ghia

09-03-2003, 04:08 AM

Your current set up is correct,
Cam mark is in line with top of head and the two crank n idle marks point to each other. Just make sure you are TDC on compression, ie both valves rocking


08-04-2003, 07:58 AM
Ok I just posted this out in the main boards then relised...but anywho, Im having trouble with my clutch also, the throwout bearing is stuffed and I got a whole new clutch kit to do the job, any special things to watch for, special tools and or extra things I will need? I got the disk, cover and bearing. Thanks. I noticed you said this post was getting hard to follow so ya can reply on the main page if ya want :p

15-04-2003, 07:08 AM
Na prettyb simple, though to make it easier you might want to borrow a dummy shaft (or go to a wrecker and cut the shaft off a stuffed box) to help line the clutch plate up

Good to see you doin it your self

Good luck

27-04-2003, 01:40 PM
Hi, Good forum, A question for you, I was told that the reason that Ford went from coil packs on the EF to dizzy on the EL was to save money for the upcoming AU model, AU went back to coil pack so there must be somrthing better about them? also was told that there were warranty claims on a heap of coil packs, especially taxis and high mileage vehicles, have you heard this?. Fonally do you think it is worth running some ducting from the brake ducts to cool the coil packs? thanks, Neil

28-04-2003, 04:31 AM
Bowsaw, I am not aware of the probs but I would guess, like all new things the forst versions are not as good as they should be. I would believe that yes there were probs and that they were fixed in the coil packs in the AU. Would you try and cool them, probably not, I would probably look at getting AU packs if I had an earlier model, I havnt heard about probs in the AU, though my son works for ford as an apprentice mechanic so Ill ask him whats commin through the workshop.

01-05-2003, 06:50 AM
Hi, Due to replace the front discs and pads on my EFII Fairmont Ghia next service, any good tips on rotors and pads that are better than standard for not much more money?

01-05-2003, 06:54 AM
Thanks for the reply, look forward to hearing what your son says. Got my first look at the car yesterday, wife drove it back from Perth, 1600kms, no problems, goes like stink, dont remember my old EB1 Fairmont going like this. And luxury, to me anyway, lovely car.My car has the 3.45 diff, does that mean it has Tickford suspension, and/or LSD? there is only a 4 digit code on the label next to the axle housing( sticker), but under rr axle on conpliance plate it has nothing, anyone help out here?

06-05-2003, 11:34 AM
Iv come across a eb2 gli falcon its a ex company car is it in great condition it has 300,000km on the clock i was wondering what do you think from a mechanical point of view. I will have money left over to do any repairs

www.msnusers.com/pictures...spics.msnw (http://www.msnusers.com/picturesofyourcars/leespics.msnw)

07-05-2003, 11:09 PM

The eb2 is a vgood vehicle, your ownly prob may be the 300000Ks. There are plenty of spares available however, at the moment I am wrecking an EB2 Fairmont with rebuilt mator and gearbox and will only be looking at about $1000.00 for everything when im finished. Lots of spares, good car if they are at the right price.

17-05-2003, 02:15 AM

95 EF GLi

My (fan) belt keeps squealing. Every now and then it goes away, but eventually comes back.

There are no cracks (that I can see) in it. It has only done around 7000 kms.

Any suggestions would be good.

17-05-2003, 02:33 AM
Have you checked the drive belt indicator?, there is an arrow on it that indicates the wear of the belt.Check for cracks on the part of the belt that goes over the water pump. Though with only 7000 it shouldnt be stretched. Otherwise remove the belt and check that all pulleys are rotating freely, if no fault can be found renew the tensioner, this is from a Gregorys manual.

17-05-2003, 06:00 AM
Mate, if you have followed bowsaws great advise and still no luck, and there is no oil etc leakin onto the belt and its at the right tension..... then get a cake of sunlight soap and start the engine and CAREFULLY hold it so the inside of the belt rubs against the soap, squeal gone. Throw the cake into the glovebox for nexxt time, lasts until you wash it off :)

19-05-2003, 11:08 AM
Thanks bowsaw and gunning.

I have checked the drive belt indicator, things appear ok. However I will go and double check it and pay extra attention to the belt over the water pump.

Seeing as it has done 335K, i wouldn't be that suprised if the tensioner is knackered.

Thank you very much for you advice :notworthy


25-05-2003, 08:25 AM

I have had problems with my fanbelt squealing in my EBII so hopefully this info will help.

I found that the threads in the tensioner were @#%$, therefore causing it to slide into a looser position (although it still felt fairly tight) but this was making it squeak.

I fixed the problem with some locktight glue to hold it in place. Also I bought a tensioner part from the wreckers in case it plays up again.

31-05-2003, 06:37 AM
Well I have a interesting problem, after the mecanic replaced the abs module(still not working needs to go to ford) my stereo doesnt work when i turn the head unit on the amp turn off the the antenna goes down and when i turn the head unit off the amp turns on and the antenna goes up.


01-06-2003, 11:07 PM
after the recent rains in sydney a few weeks ago my ef panel van has trouble firing up.it does fire eventually.it runs normal for a few days then the problem is back again.ive taken it to a mechanic,he changed the dizzy cap and leads but the same symptoms still exist----------intermitent spark, he says he needs to address the problem when the car is not firing

04-06-2003, 12:25 AM
There should be no link between the two other than an earth, I would try running a temp earth to the stereo and see if that helps. Otherwise just troubleshoot the stereo prob as a seperate problem, who knows it MAY be a co-incident :duno

Den, I need a little more info, next time it wont start straight away, get out and using a spare plug on any lead see if you do have spark:

Let me know and be careful not to get Zapped

10-06-2003, 03:43 AM


EDIT Paul ST: I changed your topic name to something more appropriate

10-06-2003, 05:00 AM
after replacing the coil she ran for a few days then the same prob no spark plenty of fuel though .new dizzy still installed same prob - all this work by a electrical mechanic.it seems under combustion pressure the spark fails .could wiring be at fault or the elec igntion .why cant all this be tested out before buying replacement parts.IS THERE ANY WAY OF BYPASSING THE IGNITION TO START THE CAR?????????????D

10-06-2003, 05:39 AM
well it would of been 3 weeks ago when the heavy rain
hit sydney.i went to start the car that sunny monday morning ,it was just cranking over over and over.i did notice a lot of condensation on the steering wheel though.so i imeadiatley thought moisture in the dizzy cap.i blew hot air for 5min over the cap and it started.i took it to the mech and it was having trouble starting but it always fired up.checked the spark and it seemed weak.they changed the dizzy cap and leads at my request.it was ok for another week and the same prob again just cranking and flooding the cylinders .car stuck in driveway.he came and replaced the coil fired first go .ran 4 another 4 days and started missing.the next day no start again.the boss came and said it the distributer .he orded one it came in the afternoon and another guy came to fit it.
still no start same symtoms power reaching coil but cuts out when cranking.plenty off fuel. i really feel like getting it towed to another garage to have it fixed.im really p.o.losing money having the car off the road and spending money on parts that might of been in working order.i had the head gasket replaced 3 months ago by the same garage,it leaked oil the next day after no oil leaks for 6 years .it has only 80,000km .could it be a ignition prob?is thei any way of bypassing the ignition to star the car?what about the computer sytem ? could moisture have anything to do with it?cant they check these things before replacing parts? (desperate den)

10-06-2003, 11:47 AM
I agree with you, if it isnt broken why should you pay for the replacement parts. Unfortunately this is the modern way of fixing probs, replace bits till it works - >: not good enough and I wouldnt be paying for those parts.

No there is no way of bypassing the ignition to start the car - no ignition - no start.

If the ignition is breaking down under compression, and you havnt told me how this was tested , then yes we need to replace something but what I think you need is some better diagnosis. You should be able to tie the problem down to at least a couple of bits if not one.

We can eliminate the plugs and leads caause one of these would cause it to miss not to refuse to start. does this only happen when it is cold? or can it happen after driving to the shop , buying a carton of milk and then trying to restart? You say you tried a heat gun on the dissy and it worked, please try this five times in a row to see if it always works or was just co-incident. Also are you getting moisture in the cap, take it off and have a look.

Also have you done a diag on the ECCIV module when it wont start?

Lastly where do you live, is it close to Canberra?

10-06-2003, 11:51 AM

Yes it could be fuel but i reakon a diagnostic on the memory codes of the computer would show a result. Have it tested and let me know what instant and memory codes are displayed

06-07-2003, 02:13 AM
Yeah I have an EA fairmont 89" done 190,000 km's and oil keeps coming out of the exhaust when I start up. any ideas how to fix it?


11-07-2003, 04:57 AM

I was wondering if you could help. I posted a thread below "Flushing the transmission". I was wondering what is the best way to go about doing a complete auto trans oil change on my EA Fairmont. Got some helpful replies but seems there is more than one way to skin this cat. Do you have any thoughts of the best way to do this?? Id appreciate any help. Perhaps if you could reply in the thread I started. Thanks in advance for any advice.

11-07-2003, 11:32 AM
If the oil is only there when you first start and it is not blowing smoke, you are lookin at valve stem seals, basically whilst the engine is sitting the oil runs past the seals and into the cylinder, whilst I have never seen one bad ebnough to blow oil out the exhaust. Please give me a bit more details, is it only when you start up, does te car blow smoke, is it just one cylinder or more (pull out the plugs and look for oil deposits.

12-07-2003, 11:15 PM

I have and EL XR6 manual and I have problem shifting into 5th and reverse gear. Other gear are fine. To shift into 5th or reverse it is really hard and I have to literally force the gear shift into position. Once in position it tends to lock and I have to force the gear shift to get it out of that gear. what is the problem? How can I fix it? And how will a proper mechanic charge me?

13-07-2003, 04:38 PM

My ed is making a ticking noise when the engine is idleing warm and the rate of ticking increases when i accelerate. It doesnt tick when the engine is cold

Its a ed 6cyl

Thanks in advance

13-07-2003, 04:49 PM
I had an eb with the same problem. ot was the hydrolic valve lash adjusters. sometimes it was just one, other times it was all of them.

They are located on the end of the rocker arms between the arm and valve stem, and are basically a small hydrolic lifter.

Tried a bottle of Fortron Lifter Free and it fixed the problem instantly :grin Have since recommended it to friends with successful results

... Hope i didnt tred on your toes Gunning :eyeb

14-07-2003, 08:05 PM

Ford recommend 150ml Lubrizol 7906 friction modifier to be added to the gearbox. Try that and see how it goes.

Also the gearbox uses a Dexron II transmision fluid, and not a gearbox oil, as such.

www.lubrizol.com/Automoti...efault.asp (http://www.lubrizol.com/AutomotiveGearOil/default.asp)

15-07-2003, 12:06 AM

Sounds like a tappet but normally when u first start the engine until u build up oil preasure. How long since you gave it an oil and filter change?

15-07-2003, 03:24 AM
About 3 days ago and then 5000k's before that.

There was a tapping when the engine first started but a new oil filter solved that.

16-07-2003, 07:50 AM

the constant ticking sound still exists any ideas

16-07-2003, 08:20 AM
I am still guessing a tappet,
If you go to your ford dealer, or a garage they have an oil addative that is designed to clead out the hydrolic lifters,
try some of that, if it fixes the prob then drain and change the oil again and bobs your uncle,
otherwise its off with the tappet cover, and see if there is an obvious collapsed lifter, this would be obvious when you manually crank the engine cause one valve either wont get pushed like the others or will go down less distance.
Worst case if you have a stuffed lifter you will need to identify which one it is and then replace it. Unfortunatly ford will insist on replacing all of them and that can be expensive, so lets hope the cleaner works.:p

16-07-2003, 09:20 AM
thanks for your reply. I had the diagnostics done on my car and they found no faults.They said the fuel filter had a lot of muck in it so they feel the injectors need cleaning. DARKANGEL

07-08-2003, 03:54 AM
Hi all,
Great forum!
Hoping someone out there can help me with a Pain In The @rse problem I'm having with my ED XR6 Auto.
It has an annoying habit of not supplying power to the starter motor solenoid intermittently - particularly in hot weather, but lately it seems to becoming more frequent. I get the lights coming on on the dashboard, but nothing from the starter motor at all. If I feed 12 volts to the solenoid it cranks over so I doubt it's the starter motor.
If I leave it for a period of time - say 1 hour and then try to start it again - it turns over and starts! I have replaced the selector/inhibitor switch on the side of the tranny ($110 from ford!) and it is still doing it. Someone please give me a clue as to what is the culprit as it's a great car but it's testing my patience at the moment!

Paul Stewart
07-08-2003, 06:19 AM
Hi Tim, Welcome to the forum!
Feel free to post images of your XR6 in the Your Ride (http://pub126.ezboard.com/ffordsperformancefalconsforumfrm39) Room.

07-08-2003, 06:55 AM
Thanks Paul.

07-08-2003, 10:31 AM
hey there after I spoke to you last Ive had my car in the shop to get the injectors cleaned but as it turned out it was the coil that was the problem. thanks Darkangel

11-08-2003, 02:41 PM
Was it a EF coil pack? if so how much was it? $48 here in northwest WA.

12-08-2003, 02:41 PM
Hi ppls, got a question about the reverse lights in an EB Falcon GLi 93. Its a column shift auto. anyway they arnt working, fuse seems ok, power getting to where the fuse plugs in, globes and contact points are fine. asked around and someone told me the reverse lights run off the neutral start switch down on the side of the gearbox. my first thought was if it wont start in any other gear than nutral or park the switch must be working fine, could the switch be faulty and be stopping the reverse lights from working?
any more info needed let me know, thanks
Just an update, it was the inhibiter switch causing the prob, pulled it off the gearbox, took it apart and cleaned it up, turned out 2 of the contacts inside had broken off so i drilled em out and put in a couple of small screws then filed the heads off so they were the same height as the other contacts, put it all back together, wacked it in reverse and bombs away the reverse lights worked!
i guess this can be used as a reference for anyone else that gets the same prob

Paul Stewart
13-08-2003, 12:38 AM
Welcome to the forum, BlUeTaC!
Unfortunally I'm no good with the technical sides of things so hopefully someone else can help you.

13-08-2003, 01:08 AM
I don't know about the BTR auto, but I know the C6 with a column shift has the reverse switch on the box. The neutral switch may be OK but the reverse switch contacts may be no good or the switch may need adjusting.

13-08-2003, 11:30 AM
thanks Paul, much appreciated, yeah stevo it did end up being the switch, just didnt realise the neutral start switch and reverse switch were inside the same switch, i edited the first post with a more detailed explanation but basically is what u just said, contacts were shot, thanks ppls, wish me luck for the roadworthy, any tips on how to prepare it to pass more easily would be appreciated, though now pretty much everything works. :eyeb :grin3 :)


20-08-2003, 12:53 AM
Well done on the inititive of the fix,
your "new" switch will probably now out live most other, special hand built components heh heh ;)

20-08-2003, 03:31 AM
Cost me around $180.00

29-08-2003, 02:54 AM
my friend has a 1993 ED GLi sedan with a 4.0lt I6 and T5 manual. now heres the problem - the engine just cuts out every now and again...doesn't do it a specific times (like only when cold, etc.) just when ever it feels like it. it has a new ECU, rebuilt distributor, new coil, new iridium plugs, new 10mm leads, and a new battery. he has spent a fortune on it in the last few weeks and it keeps doing it and no-one can tell him why. auto elecs and mechanics have no idea. could it be the earth strap or something like that? anyone else had this problem and how do you fix it???


29-08-2003, 03:01 AM
forgot to mention he also has a new fuel pump and sender unit.


30-08-2003, 04:55 AM
am recently a Ford convert,with a couppla questions since I know little about Fords.

EF auto boxes do not have a dipstick, leading me to the assumption they are sealed and cannot have their oil checked or changed and cannot be adjusted. Am I right?

Also my EF auto has 130 000 on it and it has just started slipping on cold mornings for the first block or so. I have been told this is fairly common in higher mileage cars, is this the case? Is it a cause for concern? It doesn't slip after a couppla blocks.

Lastly, some guys on this site are saying their EFs and ELs never run above the l of normal as far as operating temp goes. Mine typically doesn't unless in hilly or congested traffic where it gets to mid way around the r-m. Fine? or not.

Anyway would appreciate a reply and thanks , Fordy

30-08-2003, 03:47 PM
Gunning, feel free to shoot me down. Fordy, it's true that later EF and EL on Falcons don't have dipsticks. This move by Ford has proven to reduce gearbox problems by stopping backyarders from adding too much or wrong type trans fluid. The owners manual says that under NORMAL conditions the trans fluid doesn't need to be changed, but under severe conditions a change at 50,000km is recommended. If it's slipping, I'd say have the fluid changed.

Your temperature looks spot on.

02-09-2003, 04:54 AM
Everything you say is correct, and thanks for the input.

Fordy, Stevo has correctly stated that whilst the manual says that the auto fluid "should not need replacing" the box can still be repaired and the fluid replaced. I have even heard thet you can drill the blank out and put a dip stick back in, though I havnt tried this myself.
Your EF needs a service and now. If you let it get worse it costs more money to fix.
As for your temp, realistically a climbing temp on steep hill or traffic, when not towing is the earliest indication of an upcomming prob. Strat by getting your system flushed and preasure tested and see how it goes. If this doesnt fix it you need to be lookin at the thermostat, fans and then radiator in that order.

07-09-2003, 10:38 AM
Can anyone tell me where the IAT ( INTAKE AIR TEMP SENSOR) is on my 1994 ED Fairmont 4.0 is???


07-09-2003, 10:40 AM
Can you please tell me where the IAT (INTAKE AIR TEMP SENSOR) IS ON THE 1994 ED 4.0???


07-09-2003, 10:54 AM
Can you tell me where the IAT is on my 1994 ED 4.0 is?


08-09-2003, 02:10 AM
Carefull there EDFalcon1994 no need to repeat your question's anyway I have answered this for you in your other topic for you gunning will tell you the same.

08-09-2003, 11:30 PM
Welcome EDFalcon1994,
Sorry I was not on line on friday but as detailed in your other post, EA89 has correctly answered this one and it is a little ticky cause it appears that only the genuine Form Workshop manuals gives details

Again welcome to the forum and thanks EA89, you is da man :b

11-09-2003, 03:43 AM
My radiator guy says my water pump is shot:-x , on the way home it dropped the drive belt (damn that EF is hard to steer without pwr:o !) and leaked all that nice-smelling green stuff over the road. Just wondering how much I should expect to pay for the repairs (assuming it's just the pump supply & fit) ...


12-09-2003, 04:34 AM
These are very easy to fit, about 1 hours labor + parts. I last bought one it was bout $65.00 trade ;)

12-09-2003, 08:42 AM
do you guys get your parts,Ive not long had a water pump put in my EF and it cost me over $200.00

26-09-2003, 09:21 PM
Had her checked out and eventually found some seepage from the passanger side lower part of the radiator. The radiator in fact was warped logtitudinally beyond repair which I suspect caused not only the leak but climb in temp also. Cost 345 with a new radiator and coolant-bargain!!!

27-09-2003, 12:33 AM
Hi there it is me again,concerning my surging EF.
Its been in the shop twice Ive had the inhibitor switch replaced ignition coil replaced, torque converter replaced
number 7 solenoid replaced and PCM replaced.
And guess what? The car still has the miss between 90-100Km
The guys cant think of what else to replace, its cost me a fortune. HELP darkangel.

30-09-2003, 04:53 AM
I am not very comfortable with this try and see approach, it just costs you lots and is a cop out by the mechanic, find a new one and get him, or ford, to quote to "Fix the prob"

30-09-2003, 01:52 PM
Go to a dyno and run the car at 90-100km/h. You may be able to diagnose the fault then.

14-10-2003, 04:58 PM

I own a 1997 Ford Fairmont EL sedan. Lately I have been experiencing a trouble with it, I thought it could be leads or spark plugs so I have replaced them which I have been replacing them anyway on schedule.

The trouble is when I start up the car cold in the morning it starts up ok and I have noticed while its running normal on idling there is bit of stalling in the engine and when I take it out of the drive way and press on the accelerator to speed up it sort of feels as if the engine is going to cut out and lately it has happened as soon as I press the accelerator (ofcourse under normal driving conditions), the engine almost cut out for a couple of seconds just enough to give bit of jerk then picked up again.

I was hoping if someone could share their knowledge with me in regards to this.

Thanks in advance.


15-10-2003, 02:56 AM
Gunning. I am taking my car to ford I felt they would be the best to fix the problem, but I guessed wrong.


15-10-2003, 03:01 AM
I am taking my car to ford, as I thought they would be able to fix the problem. But I guessed wrong.

25-10-2003, 03:42 PM
hey ppl. ok i recenty bought a 93 eb falcon 4ltr auto. just wondering do they come standed with rpm gauges. etc. im pretty sure its a ghia. in my log book it says thay the commisioner of please was the last owner. and i was wondering what modifications could of been down to it. and what i could check for.

also just recently ive been experianceinf front tyre wobble when i brake. and only when i brake. i have recently replaced the brake pads. would it be a wheel alignment. ( but when i drive it does not pull to the left or right. i have checked the pads again and it all seems to be fine.????

nother thing ive recently read up on dev kits for the eb. from www.jimmockmotorsport.com i was looking at purchising the dev 4 kit. wondering is it worth the money or should i go elsewhere.( me from perth )
ne help would be great


25-10-2003, 03:44 PM
as to my last post i was the commisioner of police
and it wasnt the dev 4 kit it was the dev 3hl kit.

with the dev kits is it possible to get better performance outa a straight six for cheaper???

29-10-2003, 04:05 PM
Hey ppls I have a few questions about my Ford Falcon EB Gli 93 4.0 litre Sedan.
Would appreciate any advice anyone can give me.
I bought this car about 2 months ago, cost me a grand plus about 800 to get it on the road. Its had an LPG convert, not an x-taxi however the previous owners and their kids were rough on it.
Firstly, about a month ago I found water in the oil,<img border=0 src="http://digilander.libero.it/katalog/emo/No/smile_no0003.gif" /> quite a bit by the looks of it which explained why I kept having to top up the radiator, I thought I was losing the water originally from the lower radiator hose but it looks like it was somehow getting into the oil through the head, wasnít like that when I bought it. <img border=0 src="http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/mad.gif" />
I drained the oil and refilled after putting on a new oil filter, run some chemi-weld through the radiator after flushing it and replaced the plugs, I guess this is what the previous owners of the car did before selling it. <img border=0 src="http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/devil.gif" />
Its running ok now and the oils looked clean for a week or so but the cars beginning to run rough, idling very low and missing a bit. <img border=0 src="http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif" /><img border=0 src="http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif" />
Theres also this ticking noise in the motor sounds like its coming from under the tappet cover, im assuming this noise is caused by the lifters?

Also when I changed the plugs a while ago I noticed that the first plug had half of its lower thread rusted away, didnít look to healthy. Was a LOT of carbon on it but it just looked really sick, the rest were okÖ well not ok but in need of changing.<img border=0 src="http://digilander.libero.it/katalog/emo/No/smile_no0008.gif" />

So what do you think ppls. Am I up for a new motor? Or just a new head? Or could it be just the head gasket? How long will I be able to drive this before something dies in it? Will driving it make the problem worse even if ive stopped the water getting into the oil? Other than idling rough it runs really well out on the road, not really much power but that would be caused by it being an auto and running on gas right? Or would these problems contribute to a lack of power?
I got a few quotes on having a recon head fitted, prices seemed to vary from a grand to $1900, does anyone have any ideas where I could get a replacement head at a reasonable price on the east coast, im in queensland, hervey bay if that helps
Do I need to replace this head with another 4.0 litre head or will a 3.9 do the job?
I did find a replacement head at the wreckers close by here for $250 but the wrecker said it was from a newer model engine than mine so im wondering if he meant it would fit ok?
Finally, I have to move to the gold coast for work in one month and was planning on taking the ford, do you think it will make it the 400ks or is it going to leave me stranded if I donít scrape up the cash and get it fixed before I go? Im guessing it would be cheaper to have repaired down there anyway.
Thatís about it, let me know what your thoughts are on this, if you need some more info on anything let me know.
Thanks <img border=0 src="http://jabberwoq.com/images/emoticons/idea.gif" />

26-11-2003, 10:12 AM
OK definately not a good idea to keep driving as you will prob end up boiling it. The prob could be a Head Gasket (most Likely), a cracked head, or even a cracked block (Worst Case). My bet is you will be up for a head gasket and maybe a shave! Let me know how it goes and good luck!

26-11-2003, 06:06 PM
i finaly got around to taking the car to kmart yre and auto to get a brake inspection. it came back that everything was fine besides the rear pads were 95 % warn. i told them about the tyre wobble and they said it was caused buy the rear brakes. i thought it would be more along the lines of a warp disk. but neway a week later me front pads were metal on metal not good at all.
neway went down brought some pads went home to change them.

when i jack the car up and took the tyr of i noticed that the disk was acutally cracked. :-x
that was 9 pm at night. neway then morning (sun)
rang around and ended up finding a set of eb front rotars. so i got them aswell as new bearring kits.

well greased them up and fitted the new disks now everything seems to be fine..

also i just recently brought the mechanic manual for my car. well ea - eb - ed i recomend it to ne1 its been such a great help for alot of things.

02-12-2003, 06:57 AM
Well done moonshinebandit

Its a real worry that you can find a cracked disk and the mnechanics at KMart cannot!!!

10-12-2003, 08:57 AM
The "check ABS"warning light has been on for a few days and my mechanic had a look today.He refered me to an auto electrician because something needed to be measured and he doesn't have the gear.Can anyone tell me the possible problems I can expect??

:hat :aflag

10-12-2003, 10:22 AM
I have an EA 3.9L, when I hit the accelorator and remove my foot the rev's take some time to return to normal idle. I had this problem before and fixxed it by replacing the valve ontop of the rockercover. this time no joy. I have seen a pin underneath the air cleaner which controls the return of the accelorator but not sure if this is the problem or is it another item. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


16-12-2003, 11:49 AM

Fixing this should be a really simple issue. The EAs have a real problem with cracking the accel cable, so id look hear first. Then move the throttle by hand at the throttle body and see if it returns quickly when you let it go. If it does then the prob is probably in the cable, if it doesnt then look at the two return springs or for something fouling the mechanism, even a build up of grease.

06-01-2004, 03:44 PM
Help i have just purchased an ea spack 1991 4 speed auto sedan however going down the freeway it surges what can the problem be any ideas Thanks ...Feral :bidea

07-01-2004, 05:34 AM
Perform a CPU test on the car
possibly oxygen sensor or vacuum leak
also check the fuel line preasure release solenoid

Paul Stewart
07-01-2004, 05:39 AM
Welcome to the forum, johno.

Have you taken any photos of it? Feel free to scan them.

10-01-2004, 11:22 AM
Hey gunning mate i have an EB falcon which is stalling at idle it doesnt happen that much but just before it stalls the rpm drop and rise about 10 time before it stalls.

but if i give it a bit of revs it sits steady untill i stop then it wants to stall agian then all of a suden it fixes it self like magic.

Iv taken it to the mechanics and they couldnt find a prob with it but wanted to start throwing parts at it like fuel pump, disdributor and numberes relay your help would be great thanks

by the way im a heavy duty mechanic so i should be able to fix it myself its just i cant pin point the problem

10-01-2004, 11:23 PM
Bones, how did you go with this prob?

Ford Gz
12-01-2004, 01:47 PM
Just wanted to know what the normal running temperature should be for an ELXR8 ,cause after about half an hour of driving u cant touch the intake manifold for more then a second as its very hot.The cars temperature gauge needle always reads on m which is half between normal ,Ive had the car for 2 years and as far as i can remember its always
indicated this at normal running temp.
I compared this to my cousins 5L AU and his sits on N at normal running temp and after a 10 min drive his intake manifold is only warm although mine being off for about 30 min is hotter than his.

Any Ideas???

The car runs great but Ive been concerned about the long terms affects of the engine being this hot.

12-01-2004, 04:26 PM
I compared this to my cousins 5L AU and his sits on N at normal running temp and after a 10 min drive his intake manifold is only warm although mine being off for about 30 min is hotter than his.

there is no problem; Unless the engines are the exact same ones with the same year then they they will be a problem. But different years have slightly different variances in intake coolant passages causing the temperatures to be different. Some heat up more slowly then others. Trust me I have replaced many an intake manifold on on the same 4.6 liter in every Lincoln town car. I am an American Ford technician.

18-01-2004, 10:50 AM
how you going

I've got a problem with my el distributor and I don't know how to take it out. It's in a very cramped space and I can't seem to find a screw holding it in place.

Please help

19-01-2004, 02:00 PM
thanks fella's it was the oxygen sensor

21-01-2004, 12:28 AM
Excelent, another win for the good guys

18-02-2004, 03:29 PM
hey i wrote early. but now i seem to have a diff prob with the tyre.

well when i take off like like take off pretty fast well the front left rimm seems to twist then go back to normal ( like if the nuts done up tight i spose but i have taken the rim off checked the disks and there seems to be no play in them (wobble)
put the rims back on made sure the nuts were tight but it still does it >? ne ideas what to loook for?/
could it be the disks arnt tight even thoe theres seems to be no play or could it be the shockies?

also when i drive at normal speed i can here in the bacl left had side like a knocking sound and seems worst under brakes i have changed the pads and it still seems the same ??? could it be the rear bearings or something in the diff/???

standard 93 eb falcon 4 speed auto.
ne help would be great guys

ps sorry bout the descriptions of the prob sometimes thease things r hard to word >>

18-02-2004, 03:37 PM
just another quick question.

over the last couple of weeks ive been taken me car down to woopass wed night street drags at the motor plex in perth..
and been running times between 16.555 and 17.500
over the last 3 weeks its been running slower and slower
i have changed the fuel filter and put an injector cleaner threw it and aven tryed that octane boost but still not runnig right

i have a new set of spark leads to changed just got to find the time to change them seems to be difficult specialy where the distibuter is placed :(

i have a brand new cooling system in it. and always makes sure the oil levels and trans fluid is right

nething thing i should look for ????/
or test ?

cheeres ppl

18-02-2004, 04:08 PM
hey gunning just wanted to know by ne chance r u frank gunners from wa ( byford)?

use to work at coventrys?

24-02-2004, 09:06 AM
Hey guys, great forum u got here indeed
My question for the mechanic was how do you remove the actual pulley from the water pump itself on a 4.0L EFII?

26-02-2004, 12:17 PM
No Moonshinebandit, wrong guy :duno

26-02-2004, 12:19 PM
I would be checkin the throttle cable, with all this draggin Im bettin its stretched and you now not gettin full throttle, let me know?

05-03-2004, 07:24 PM
G'day! Thanks in advance! (I hope!) I've just converted my EA Falcon from a 3.2 ltr to 4.0 ltr EF engine (3 speed auto is same), it was CFI and the only thing that has changed is the engine block it's self. (The orginal engine was changed as it over heated, and buggered the head and head gasket, was arguably cheaper to replace engine, rather than just head.)

The local mechanic that has done the work, has it up and running, but we can't track down a problem, and that's that at idle and parked it hunts up and down (will eventually stall, in less than 5 minutes) and when taken for a drive unexpectedly stalls at intersections etc...

By what I've read so far, it maybe the dizzy, the map sensor, the idle sensor, coil or something else entirely. Can you please help me narrow down this problem, if I can help it would rather try and fix specific problem rather than a range of possibles (money is on the thin side). Both my mechanic and I are at a loss! Totally thanks in advance!

06-03-2004, 01:30 PM
Problem solved to anyone else out there, after the mechanic checked everything and I mean everything, it's come down to a $350 fuel pump (fitted), it drives very well apart from heat, think mechanic missed the coolant in the radiator tis all (will be fixed tom by myself).

Thanks for having this forum and for allowing people to post and thanks to Moonshinerunner for offering to be there for people, who maybe just some times have no idea! :) Cheers! Will be back hopefully with no issues though! :)

07-03-2004, 08:41 AM

I'm about to buy an EB2 with about 200K kms on the clock.

Part of my usual 'new old car' process is to change all the fluids i can get my hands on.

My question is about the auto trans fluid.

1. Should i do a full flush or should i just drop the pan and replace what comes out of there - leaving behind 6-7 litres of old fluid?

2. From what i've read/heard, high KM auto trannies can fail after being flushed (something to do with removing old varnish off drive bands etc). Is this true?

3. Also, what exactly is involved in a trans service? the going rate around here is about $140-$150 - a bit hard to swallow if they're just dropping the pan, replacing the filter and topping up the fluid.


09-03-2004, 02:25 PM
hi moonshinerunner, thanks for the good work. I can't let my ea beat me!

I've got an ea s-pack (multipoint) which has been cutting out without warning. it sometimes comes straight back on but other times it won't go again for twenty minutes. I've got duel fuel and it does it on both. Plus backfiring out the exhaust when I try to roll start it while still moving. Therefore its getting fuel, definetly electrical cutout, but really random and seems to happen on hot days. It goes again after leaving the hood up for about twenty minutes. I did the self-diagnostic test which indicated ISC solenoid or map sensor. Changed these plus the coil and high tension lead but it started again a week later. Have been told by a mate it could be dodgy TFI module on the distributor. Does this sound right? It's driving me insane because it's actually running beautifully ... Thanks dude.

10-03-2004, 03:12 PM
Do you mind if I try and answer this one, I maybe wrong, but was informed by long time Ford loving Uncle (when I was trying to get mine back on the road) that the problem, with having to cool down 20 minutes before it will start definately sounds like your distributor, aparantantly the EA's are known for it.

Instead of shelling for a new one, (I mean the whole base unit, due to it becoming unbalanced and eating your modules, at $300 bucks or more) why not try the wreckers first and see if they buy try / lend you one!

Moonshiner might have a better idea (or more tech detail than me), just thought it might be good to suggest what I had heard and pass it along! Cheers!

11-03-2004, 02:53 AM
Well done and we always encourage input from anyone

You are correct in that there is a known issue with the EA's and the Thick Film Module (TFM) on the distributor. The symptoms are exactly as described however b4 going out and buying any parts, go to your local electronics shop and buy a small tube of "heat sink compound", the remove the TFM, clean off all the old compound and re-apply a good thick coating. The normal problem is that over time the compound dries out, no longer takes the heat away from the TFI and hence it over heats. The other possibility is that the Fuel Pump relay is dropping out under heat, my suggestion on this is to remove all four relays, located front RHS near battery and clean the mount blocks, then rotate the four black relays into different mounts. If you now get different symptoms you know it is a crook relay.

Normally just the clean will fix the prob, let us know

11-03-2004, 09:24 AM
I have an el falcon that had some overheating problems a friend of mine took out the thermostat I have since discovered he didnt put in a new one he assures me there will be no problem I have doubts what do you think. The car is now running without a thermostat I still have overheating problems

13-03-2004, 04:32 AM

14-03-2004, 12:14 AM
My guess is it's a computer reset - give it a coule o' hundred kms and it should come good.

and by the way, DON'T SHOUT!!!


15-03-2004, 04:20 PM
ticking noise coming from under tappet cover any ideas ... thanks

26-03-2004, 03:33 AM
sounds like he might have got the two wires switched between the amp remote wire and the antenna remote wire. these are opposite polarities when the stereo is turned on? he might have had to pull your stereo out when he changed abs unit and connected wrong wires!

Jedi Jezz
31-03-2004, 03:57 AM
As per the subject when my car is just idleing and I am standing next to it the sound of fuel pump is quite distinct. The car runs fine and has no trouble when the accelerator is put to the floor, never stalls, and has very little oil 'weeping' from the head etc.

Is it normal for it to do this? Is this a common thing?

Just a concerned ford lover :)

15-04-2004, 01:12 AM
Hi Gunning. Hope you can help me. I suspect my throttle position sensor is not working. I have really bad fuel consumption (i.e 4kms per litre) and the engine has erratic throttle behaviour when I depress the accelerator. If i run the car on gas, a slight press on the accelerator rams the engine but as the engine returns to idle speed, it dies down. Also, when accelerating smoothly, there's this vibration feeling, as if the car is void of fuel or air. I would like to know if this problem is caused by the throttle position sensor. Also, is there a way for me to tune my car myself? I have a gas conversion done on the car.I noticed a feedback controller on mounted nearby the engine, its manufactured by A.E.B and it can be adjusted but I don't know how to. I bought a Gregory's Service Manual but it didn't state anything about tuning my efi. Hopefully I'll be able to save $202 on the E.F.I tuning. Thanks for your time Gunning

07-05-2004, 02:47 PM
hey well havnt checked the throttle cable yet.

but done thew other mods.

lovel superlows all round new rear upper and lower controll arms and busshes.
stoped the noise in the rear. a bit.

pacemaker extractors 2.5' exaust from d&t , tickford cam, ss cold air induction kit, now hooking up a shift kit to me auto trans. get the shifts faster... question is.

on the ecu how hard is it to find pin 57 and pin 38 ??? r they marked at all ???

13-05-2004, 08:19 AM
HI All,

Good forum here!
I have an 89 EA Falcon that has a broken fan. It just didnt start one day and it showed no signs of dying. I thought maybe there is a relay or something that might have died, can you help? Checked the fuse and its fine. If there is a relay or your have any tips could you please point me in the right direction.

Thanks very much.

28-05-2004, 09:15 PM
Fan speed resistor may need replacement. It lives under the dash somewhere, not xactly sure where.
Hope this helps

15-06-2004, 06:05 AM
I have a EL Falcon 4.0L with just 2.5inch sports exhaust with S/S extractors and a Tickford cold air intake + K/N filter.. i`ve just had a mini spool and 3:9:1 gears put in the rear and my car is clocking out before 400meters... is there anyway i can take the speed limitor or governor off myself...? Also would a AU 2 Throttle Body fit my car and would it be bigger and would it make much difference...?
Any help appreciated..

21-06-2004, 01:48 PM
same thing happened to my eb2 at 180000km - it had a cracked head stud and coolant was leaking out down the side of the block - mechanic could only see it by holding mirror up under exhaust stuff and look at reflection of water trickle out.

05-07-2004, 10:48 AM
hi there wondering if you could help us we did a gearbox service on the falcon ed and when changing the oil a piece fell out that we think is a roller bearing/slide pin. we took the side plate off it may have come from there we don't know we hope you can tell us where it goes as the car can't reverse thankyou regards matthew

05-07-2004, 11:32 AM
R we talking manual box here?
If so then your reverse gear is probably seized. Can u even select reverse?

09-07-2004, 09:55 AM
You could try an old XD part their tube through which the clutch passes is bolt on/off get one and bolt it onto your firewall , seen it done on XFs not on EB's though .

09-07-2004, 10:12 AM
Yes I had the same problem at about 150,000-155,000 , look at the exhaust manifold at the front of the head, just under the manifold where the head meets the block(this is easier to see if you remove the heat shield from the manifold), just run your finger over the join between the head and block checking for fluid /moisture.
Mine leaked there, only under specific circumstance, best to check when hot, be careful "ouchies".
Also it did not show up on pressure tests etc.
If it is leaking there a head gasket should do the job , that is what I did.

09-07-2004, 10:27 AM
OK , kinda hard to explain , but here goes.....
When I turn the steering wheel on my 1994 ED Futura Classic, I get a grinding noise .
Now sounded bad got it checked by , I've lost count of how many people(mechanics mostly, a few suspension specialists too), and no one can tell me what is wrong or where the noise is comming from.
My next step was going to be remove pwr steering rack and replace it $$$$, not my preferred option.

15-07-2004, 08:09 AM
I am going to supercharging my 1997 5.0L and wondered what year mustang my engine is bassed on so i can buy a cheaper kit from over seas thanks for any help

01-08-2004, 12:04 AM

I have just replaced the brake light switch in my Ford Futura 97. Now the brakes stay on all the time. It's a standard Ford switch I think. Is there any way of adjusting it? I can't seem to find an adjusting screw on it.



11-08-2004, 02:10 AM
Ahhh, bloody EB,
Just determined the play in the steering rack isn't healthy, and it requires a rebuild or replacement.
Having spoken to ford spare parts they quote on a rack kit but cannot tell me if all the required parts are in the kit.
Are there aftermarket kits available, if so do they have all the required bushes, bearings and seals to do the job, or will the ford kit suffice ? Secondly is the rack owner re-buildable, as the workshop manual quotes a number of special tools?
I have the time, normal tools and experience to do the work, but any advice or information would be appreciated.
regards and thanks, Justin P

11-08-2004, 09:33 PM
Id advise that its not a good proposition attempting youir own rack rebuild without a clue.
Once rebuilt they should be tested on a bench pump before doing service otherwise u can have untold dramas on the road.
If the pinion to rack adjustment isnt correct you could get binding of the rack or even breakage, which means ...CRASH!!!
Best bet is a remanufactured rack from say Pedders. They come with a 12 month warranty, inline Magnefine filter, new parts where necessary, new torsion rods in all racks (very important) for around 400.

12-08-2004, 01:31 AM
I understand your concern, however I have rebuilt a few racks before with no adverse affects, however my question is if anyone had experience with the ford sold rack kit, and its completeness as the spare parts guys couldn't tell me if it had all required parts. and if any of the special tools couldnt be substituted with time and standard tools.
At $150 the rack kit is substantially cheaper than that quoted as replacement and given the amount of work the car also needs any saving is worthwhile.



18-08-2004, 09:40 AM
hi i have bought an ed falcon with 268000 on the clock and it has started to thump up the gears. It does it occasionally when it is cold but it becomes much worse once the car is hot. Do u know wat could be causing this?

20-08-2004, 04:26 AM
I got a 97 EL and recently I've noticed a weird hissing or air type noise coming from the passanger/glovebox area. It goes away as the car accelerates and returns as the car idles or maintains constant speed. It's almost like the air conditioner is on. Anybody heard anything like this before?

23-08-2004, 10:40 AM
HI everyone. Should my ed falcon be running on premium or normal unleaded? Will fuel economy and performance be improved no premium? I have been told that it depends on the compression ratio of the head as to whether or not premium is the way to go? Can anyone shed some light on this?

07-09-2004, 07:39 PM
Hey PETN did you reco your own auto transmission if so is it reletively easy and about how much does i cost?

10-09-2004, 04:39 PM
Mr Moonshinerunner,
I have a 93 ED 4 speed auto with a shade short of 190,000 on the clock and i have it seviced and tuned evry time its due. The little problem i'm having its a bit hard to explain but here goes, it idles fine execpt when it is idling every couple of seconds it gives a little grrr and the motor has a little shake. It idles fine doent try to stall or anything and when driving its also OK no missfire or backfire or stalling at lights its just this little grr and a shake. It has never been picked up when gone into a shop for work (service & tune, exhaust replaced)
Hope you can follow what i'm on about. Cheers :thumbsup:

10-09-2004, 09:19 PM
EDSteve dont know if this will help but my 90 ea was doing the same thing and i tried a lot of diferent things to fix it finaly got a hold of a friends timing lite and found it wasn't timed rite (advanced frome memory but not sure) timed it rite and started running sweet hope this helps

10-09-2004, 11:59 PM
EDSteve dont know if this will help but my 90 ea was doing the same thing and i tried a lot of diferent things to fix it finaly got a hold of a friends timing lite and found it wasn't timed rite (advanced frome memory but not sure) timed it rite and started running sweet hope this helps
Thanks mate I'll look into it.

11-09-2004, 06:16 PM
ticking noise coming from under tappet cover any ideas ... thanks

yeah noisy tapets, grab some lifter free from super cheap or where ever and dump it into your oil, had the same on my ea a couple of months ago dumped it in, and as con the fruiterer says "copla daz, bewdafuwl" stil dose it ocationaly but getting fewer and further between

11-09-2004, 08:30 PM
Did I buy a lemon or do the EL's have a ****ty auto boxes??
When I bought the car it kicked hard into gear, but salesman said it was "just a solenoid" and "ill get it fixed".
Three months later the thing would not go past third gear and it got a rebuild under warrenty.
Now reverse has **** itself.. it engages and will reverse without touching the throttle, but if you do use the throttle the thing shudders and thumps something terrible. :<

I have always had the box regularly serviced and flushed and I am somewhat dissapointed in what is an otherwise really neat car.

Any advice? :confused: These boxes are damnd expensive. :eek:

DrewOfNZ :driving:

13-09-2004, 09:38 PM
I own a 92 6 cyl fairlane NC.. I am told that you only have to set the base timing and once the motor fires up the computer takes over?? is this true and how do you set the base timing?

14-09-2004, 10:05 PM
HI Moonshinerunner,
I have Ford Falcon EA station wagon, and recently i bought the digital instructment cluster and want to upgrade it. But i found that there have 1 more extra plug for the digital cluster, and i think i have to do somthing to make this cluster work, because i viewed ebay and somtime the guy sell the similar thing and they said it must work on EA, but do some extra wiring require.

So i want to ask you any methods or idea to fit this digital cluster to my EA?
Is it hard to do it myself?

By the way, i have 1 more question, which is regard to EA dual fuel, i also viewed some sites and EA also have dual fuel features, so i was wondering is that possible to setup this thing in workshop, and how much will cost for this.

Thanks a lot.

17-09-2004, 03:54 PM
Has mr moonshinerunner changed his name to Moonshinedunarunner. :laugh:

22-09-2004, 09:11 PM
G`day ,, excellent forum youve got here .
hopefully someone can give me some help , i have a 92 EB 6cyl Auto.
the speedo trip meter and odometer stopped working so i removed the dash and had it repaired, now if by coincidance or not iam haveing problems with the auto and the idle . first up the idle, it idles fine most of the time but every now and then the idle will jump up and other times it will almost stall and its near impossible to take off slowly from a stand still the slightest touch on the throttle and it speeds off .

the auto is my main concern , sometimes it seems to be taking off in 3rd gear and it doesnt matter how hard you slam the throttle to the floor it wont kick back and it wont upshift to 4th either . once youve been sitting around 100km/h for a while it will shift to 4th . i can shift thru the gears manualy up to 3rd with no worries . most days the shift is quite normal , no shudders or bangs and on both times its played up it was on the way home from work never in the morning going to work . any help would be grately appreciated .

23-09-2004, 09:24 AM
the auto being stuck in third is a limp mode, to protect the trany from potential damage because there is somthin or the ecu thinks there's somthing wrong. had the same prob in my 90ea with the four speed auto, ended up being the trany temp sensor wire earthing and so the ecu thought the trany was over heating. but either way you'll need to take it to a trany specialist and get it checked out and hooked up to a diagnostic computer to get the codes

23-09-2004, 06:20 PM
Thanks Tony .. when i removed the dash i disconnected the battery , and then after the auto played up a friend said that my problem could be because of dirty battery terminals so i disconnected the battery once more to clean the terminals . could it be possible that computer was trying to reset itself ? and thats why it stayed in 3rd gear . it has only played up twice and both times seem to coincide with disconnecting the battery .

23-09-2004, 10:16 PM
Thanks Tony .. when i removed the dash i disconnected the battery , and then after the auto played up a friend said that my problem could be because of dirty battery terminals so i disconnected the battery once more to clean the terminals . could it be possible that computer was trying to reset itself ? and thats why it stayed in 3rd gear . it has only played up twice and both times seem to coincide with disconnecting the battery .

that could well be the case however i dont know how to reset the ecu, possibly disconect the batery for an hour or so and make sure that all fuses and conections are clean and secure before reconecting

27-09-2004, 05:23 PM
disreguard... prob fixed. Another thing.. looking at getting extractors and exhust fitted. Does anyone know a good mech in east melb and 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 for my fairmont EAII 1990.

28-09-2004, 08:32 AM
Mr Moonshinerunner,
I have a 93 ED 4 speed auto with a shade short of 190,000 on the clock and i have it seviced and tuned evry time its due. The little problem i'm having its a bit hard to explain but here goes, it idles fine execpt when it is idling every couple of seconds it gives a little grrr and the motor has a little shake. It idles fine doent try to stall or anything and when driving its also OK no missfire or backfire or stalling at lights its just this little grr and a shake. It has never been picked up when gone into a shop for work (service & tune, exhaust replaced)
Hope you can follow what i'm on about. Cheers :thumbsup:

Well hade a service and tune yesterday, got 'em to investigate and the out come was, Electrical OK, one of the injectors seems to be slightly bloked. The bloke said to try a couple of tanks of cleaner (good quality brand) after a month or two if it hasent improved, take it back and have a proper clean out. :D

ford tickfordxr6
28-09-2004, 11:26 AM
i have a 93 eb s2 and i put heavy duty clutch in my car and it keeps bending the pedal box, clutch fork and firewall as well as snapping the cable ive welded all of these and they still break. What should i do?

28-09-2004, 04:06 PM
Put a standard clutch in it.

ford tickfordxr6
28-09-2004, 05:17 PM
they wear out to fast. my car gets used alot and i treat the clutches pretty bad plus the rest of the car is setup for driving fast.

28-09-2004, 11:33 PM
Well then assuming the cable and throw out fork geometry are OK, you'll either have to strengthen the firewall or convert to a hydraulic clutch. Fox body Mustangs ('79-'93) have similar problems and aftermarket kits are available to fix the problem. Short of anyone else having a good suggestion, maybe you should try to contact guys who have raced six cylinder Falcons in Rally or Production racing.

30-09-2004, 05:04 PM
Hi Moonshine,

Two weeks ago, a friend and I replaced the head gasket, and radiator (full of ford sand), in an 89 EA Falcon, for a neighbour (single mum).

It has been running fine for the past two weeks, however now it is idling at approx 1500rpm. I have checked the throttle cable etc.

Is it possible that this is caused by an air leak either inlet manifold or a vacuum hose coming off. There iss nothing obvious to me.

The car has a carburetor rather than MPFI. Any assistance would be appreciated.

I have an EBII fairmaont 1993, that also suffered from casting sand blocking the radiator, did Ford ever get there act right and stop this from occurring?


Kevin G

05-10-2004, 01:49 PM
I'm a new member and as such have not read all the threads.
I have a 1998 EL futura and my issues are1)The Odometer bulb is U/S and I would like to know how to replace it.(2) Just recently the Airbag warning light and the ABS warning light have come up and stay on.I read one of the threads that there is some wiring/connector under the drivers seat .....where, I can't find them.